Halogen spotlights a fire risk?

Mar 06, 2007 27 Replies

Hi All



My ex showhome has flush fitting halogen spotlights in the bathrooms on the top floor. Went up in the loft at the weekend and found hundreds of dead flies in the light fittings so gave it all a good clean. However what I saw gave me cause for concern.



Lifting up the fibreglass loft insulation (or whatever the correct term is) reveals the plasterboard of the bathroom ceiling, with the halgen lights sticking though and a mess of wires (and flies!). There is



*nothing* else to protect the lights, or to separate the loft insulation from the very hot halogen bulbs. Is this normal? To my untrained eye it looks like a hell of a fire risk but there were no scorch marks or anything on the insulation.

Does this sound like a typical installation?



Cheers James


AFAIK they should have covers over the back end of the lamps that are fire retardant. Call the bodgers back in that wired the house under the guarantee

Any idea is this is just common sense or is it specified in some regs somewhere?

I need to be careful because technically the 2 year new build guarantee has expired even though I am the first occupier since 4 months ago. The builder has been quite receptive so far though.

Cheers James

It does, but it's not a correct one.

There are special back covers, rather like flowerpots that should be fitted to keep the insulation away and dissipate the heat.

On Tue, 06 Mar 2007 09:59:26 +0000, James P mused:

Both, depends on various other factors but usually the way you've got is the done way. You can get fire hoods for the downlighters which can be retrofitted.

2? What happened to 10 year warranties?

10 year is only for structural failure.

Owain

IIRC the 10 years is for 'structural' items only - foundations, walls, floors, roof - and not services or finishes.

Thanks, just found some on the net. I can easily do this myself for the top floor lights but I am not about to start tearing up my wooden floor for the others.

It's amazing what you find in modern houses when you take a peek underneath the surface. Grrr.

Cheers James

It sounds typical, and is unlikely to be a direct fire risk in the sense of the insulation bursting into flame (loft insulation has a very good fire retardant rating). However it may overheat the fittings a bit and reduce bulb life (more of a worry if they are low voltage lights with local transformers - since it may shorten the transformer life).

Where light fittings penetrate a fire resistant layer between floors they ought to be protected with an in intumescent hood. However checking these is not as easy! The ones into the uninhabited left space are slightly less important. Traditional flower pots are one easy DIY solution for allowing the heat to dissipate on the lights that penetrate into the loft.

It's probably less of a problem on the lower floors in that there won't be insulation there.

I would take a look up in the loft, lift the insulation and look out for other naughties like cables terminated in chocolate block connectors - that type of thing.

As in the ceramic type? We have 5 halogen lights in our bathroom that enter into the loft space above. I've just cut round the insulation but never really felt it was that safe. Googling for fire retardant hoods brings up covers at £10 a go so something cheaper would be ideal.

T.

On Tue, 06 Mar 2007 15:14:25 +0000 someone who may be John Rumm wrote this:-

And also unlikely to be through a fire partition in most houses.

That's a good point - fairly reassuring.

How about this? An example of quality wiring in my new house:

formatting link

I've fitted loft ones before using lengths of 4" plastic ducting (eg

formatting link
As a follow-up query... I have to install some more of these things in a bathroom where the ceiling joists are very close together (due to age of the house and presence of spurious noggins etc between them: anyway, the upshot is that in order to get 4 downlighters into the ceiling in a regular pattern, at least 2 of them will have to be considerably closer to the nearest joist than the minimum distance specified by the manufacturer's instructions (which I have to say look pretty anal to me). I'm just wondering how to get round this sensibly. Looking at the situation, my intuition/gut feeling/logic tells me there's no way that the offending joist could possibly be damaged by or set on fire by a lamp nearby, but I'm not about to flagrantly disregard the instructions.

If I fit my plastic ducts or flowerpots over the lights, surely that's going to absorb/deflect heat anyway? What about gluing aluminium foil or sheeting over the joist for belt and braces?

Thanks David

Well terracotta typically....

The fire retardant hood are really designed to help plug up the hole in the even of fire, thus stopping spread of smoke between floors. If you just want to keep flammable stuff at a safe distance from hot lights then the plant pot ought to do it well enough,

Oh dear.....

I would take and keep photos of everything, prepare a set and forward to the managing director of the construction company.

You might also want to consider buying a decent cable detector and runing around the walls with it to ensure that cables run vertically or horizontally from all fittings, sockets and switches. This could save an unfortunate accident in the future.

Going round and checking the wiring in fittings might not be a bad idea either.

In message , Clint Sharp writes

Not helped much by the insistence of trendy light fixture manufacturers in making such teensy ceiling plates that there's nowhere to put the contents of a ceiling rose. Then they actually suggest you use terminal block, tape it up and poke it up through the ceiling. They should be forced to incorporate proper (and accessible) electrical containment in their designs.

What about getting some of those heat resistant soldering mats that plumbers use and pin them to the affected joists. Trevor

Join the Discussion

Have something to add? Share your thoughts — no account required.

Didn't find your answer?

Ask the community — no account required