I'm in the process of redecorating our hall and I'd like to get rid of the old pendant lamp and replace it with some downlighters.
There seem to be quite a few options now with LED lamps as well as mains &
12v halogen lamps to think about. If I go the low voltage route, where does one normally fit the transformer? I presume it has to be reasonably accessible.
What other things do I need to think about? Fireproofing? It's a long time since I've done any wiring but I understand that regulations have changed. How does this affect the DIYer?
You'd do well to read the archives of this newsgroup for a lot of opinions on the subject!
Yes, they do 'blow' occasionally so you need to be able to get at 'em. Either via an accessible (ie, not in the middle of a carpeted room under a double bed), liftable floorboard upstairs, or from downstairs, you can often just pop them up through the hole you cut for the downlighter. You can buy dinky junction boxes which will also fit through if need be.
The kit will come with instructions about necessary clearances etc. You need to keep the low-voltage cables short, as they will carry substantial current (because they are low-voltage - like a car) - again, lots in the archives about this.
I'd recommend one low-power transformer per downlighter, rather than one stonking one for all - overall cost is about the same, and if one blows you don't lose all the lights. And you can keep the LV cable runs short.
Oh yes. Just google this group for 'Part P' to learn more than you ever wanted to know.
CFL downlighters would save you their cost several times over. But... downlighting is about the worst option in many respects. Its fashionable, but thats probably its only plus point.
The message from snipped-for-privacy@care2.com contains these words:
It has other advantages - our kids like to play with a soft ball in the long hall to blow off steam if it's cold/wet/dark outside. Flush downlighters survive.
Just been doing that. I get the impression that they're for shallow impressionable people. Sounds right up my street. ;-)
I have picked up quite a bit of negativity and I think I might have a rethink. The thing is, my hall is 5M long and a single pendant light is effing useless at illuminating more than a small bit of it which is why I'm looking at options. I like the *look* of these dinky spots but I'm prepared to concede that I don't know if spots pointed vertically down will provide more useful illumination. I can't help feeling that a few spots along the length of the hall might be better though.
I have a hatred of compact fluorescent lamps, largely as they *all* lie about their output and none of them come near 100W equivalent let alone
150W. Combined with a slow warm-up means that flicking a switch does *not* provide useful illumination when I want it, ie. when I flick a switch.
A naked GLS bulb gives a near omni directional output. Add a lampshade and who knows - it depends on the design. But the colour of the walls etc has an even greater influence.
They'll certainly light the floor. If that's what you want and the results are pleasing go for it.
if you go with downlighters you'll need hundreds of watts. With CFL uplighting you'd need under 100w. 6x50w halogens downlights would give you an average bulb change interval of 1500/5 = 300 hours. 3x 25w cfl uplights would give you an average bulb change time of 1000 - 7000 hrs, depending on bulb type, use a quarter the energy, quarter the run cost, and not heat the place up in an already hot summer.
25w is about equiv to 100w. Its unfortunate the lighting industry continues to try to mislead buyers, but its nothing but a bit of sales bull printed on the box.
CFLs vary a lot, some come on bright, some dim. Not had a bad one from Osram yet. Light quality also varies, with Osram proving a safe bet so far.
I'd avoid anything sold as an uplighter if fitting uplighters, the sheds seem pretty clueless about these things.
You can have the look of downlights with the efficiency of uplighting. Just fit 10w or 20w downlights and make up the rest of the light requirement with uplight. You can of course fit either GLS filament, halogen or cfl in uplights. That might suit you, and avoid the place heating up a few more degrees in summer.
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