Got myself in a hole...

Hi All,

I was fitting a low profile shower try which requires it to be stuck to the floor with silicone. The floor is 3/4 ply so I cut an over sized hole in it to enable the trap to fit through and connect to the tray. I fitted the tray and the hole matched the cut out so stuck it all down. When I went t o fit the trap I realised that there is a flange all the way around it on w hich a rubber seal fits.

Most of the hole in the ply is fine except for a section (about 1/4 circle) where the flange hits the ply. Bloody typical! I don't want to cut the fl ange as I am afraid it will cause the gasket to leak so somehow need to tri m the hole. I can get access under the floor from besides the tray but the waste pipe and water pipes make access to the area very difficult.

I have tried chiseling from above which was partly successful in the I now have a sloped edge but can't get the chisel into a shallow enough angle to get the rest off. I have tried

- a dremel type thing but only have sanding disks which bearly touch the wo od before breaking.

- a right angle chuck to try and use a drill bit to "sand" the edge but no joy. I also tried one of those "saw" drill bits but they only "saw" mid wa y along the shaft

At the moment my only option seems to be to cut a hole in the ceiling below and access from there. As you can imagine this is not a popular option.

Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks

Lee.

Reply to
leenowell
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Can you get a Bosch/Fein-type multi-tool to it?

If not, I'd be tempted to lift the shower tray up rather than go through the ceiling

Reply to
mailbin

the floor with silicone. The floor is 3/4 ply so I cut an over sized hole in it to enable the trap to fit through and connect to the tray. I fitted the tray and the hole matched the cut out so stuck it all down. When I we nt to fit the trap I realised that there is a flange all the way around it on which a rubber seal fits.

cle) where the flange hits the ply. Bloody typical! I don't want to cut th e flange as I am afraid it will cause the gasket to leak so somehow need to trim the hole. I can get access under the floor from besides the tray but the waste pipe and water pipes make access to the area very difficult.

now have a sloped edge but can't get the chisel into a shallow enough angle to get the rest off. I have tried

e wood before breaking.

no joy. I also tried one of those "saw" drill bits but they only "saw" mi d way along the shaft

elow and access from there. As you can imagine this is not a popular optio n.

Unfortunately the pipes are in the way for a Fein tool I had assumed that getting the tray up would be virtually impossible without damaging it as th ere was a lot of silicone sticking it down. Anyone tried lifting one after wards?

Reply to
leenowell

You can get Dremel cutting discs for wood such as

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(may be cheaper elsewhere - that was just the first I found).

Reply to
Peter Parry

he floor with silicone. The floor is 3/4 ply so I cut an over sized hole i n it to enable the trap to fit through and connect to the tray. I fitted t he tray and the hole matched the cut out so stuck it all down. When I went to fit the trap I realised that there is a flange all the way around it on which a rubber seal fits.

e) where the flange hits the ply. Bloody typical! I don't want to cut the flange as I am afraid it will cause the gasket to leak so somehow need to t rim the hole. I can get access under the floor from besides the tray but t he waste pipe and water pipes make access to the area very difficult.

w have a sloped edge but can't get the chisel into a shallow enough angle t o get the rest off. I have tried

wood before breaking.

o joy. I also tried one of those "saw" drill bits but they only "saw" mid way along the shaft

ow and access from there. As you can imagine this is not a popular option.

pictures sure would help.

Ceiling holes aren't hard to fix neatly, but many do lack the skill.

NT

Reply to
tabbypurr

Any chance of snapping off the remainder with an angled head tool, I'm thinking waterpump pliers? Or would bending the end of a chisel get you the angle you need?

Reply to
Steve

Dremel cutting bit.

Reply to
Bob Eager

Stanley knife with several new blades. Not the cheap blades costing 50p for five.

Reply to
Mr Pounder Esquire

Multimaster type of tool and a small plunge cut blade...

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You wanted an excuse to buy one didn't you?

(and to be fair, they are fantastic "now get out of that" type tools).

Reply to
John Rumm

+1

I dont have the skill tried skimming and always a fail, however have done a few `patches` in ceiling and always invisible, the patch you cut out does most of the `filling` and its just the edges that need filling and sanding smooth.

Reply to
ss

I did manage to take my old one out when refurbishing but bear in mind I could afford to take risk as it was being replaced. I initially started with a stanley knife and then small wedges on one side, tap them in just tight enough to create pressure and left for a couple of hours then tap in a bit more and leave again and keep repeating changing to bigger wedges when necessary. I eventually got it out in one piece. I am not saying this will work for you but it did me.

Reply to
ss

Yup patching a hole in PB is usually pretty easy IME:

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Reply to
John Rumm

Router. You may need a piece of ply to make it level before you run a suitable rebate cutter with a ball bearing guide around it.

Reply to
dennis

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