Good idea to have a wireless room thermostat fitted?

Annual oil boiler service just done. The engineer was surprised that the house, built in 2004, doesn't have a room thermostat in any room. Apparently, from 2005 on this became a requirement.
Anyway, he said there are wireless thermostats available that can be connected to the system. He mentioned one from Siemens that he said was very good. (I have total faith in this engineer, by the way. He has always provided good service.)
Now, is this a good idea or a waste of money (it'd cost around 130 for the part and the labour)?
MM
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
MM brought next idea :

Lacking a room stat, it will cycle on the boiler stat continuously while ever it is turned on - I assume it must use TRV's. A room stat would shut both boiler and pump off when the the set temperature is reached, so well worth the money.
--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

OK, but where do you put it? Traditionally in the hall but that would be totally inappropriate in my house. OK in the main living area (if you have one) but it's likely to get set high if people elsewhere complain that their heating keep shutting off.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
newshound wrote:

All my rads have TRVs apart from the rad in the hall where the wireless room stat/programmer is located. It's always seemed a mystery to me why you should need a room stat *and* TRV's because they are often fighting against one another! If the hall reaches temperature then the stat will shut down the boiler even if the TRVs in other rooms are calling for heat. Doesn't seem to make sense...
--
Triff


Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Triffid wrote:

What you do is balance the (hall) rad so its low output, then all the heat goes to the TRV rads till the rooms are warm. Once they shut down the hall warms up, and once that happens, master stat shuts off the PUMP.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

It doesn't.

What happens when one of the other rooms cools down (e.g. an outside door was opened) but the Hall is still warm?
MBQ
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Fri, 4 Mar 2011 16:03:05 -0000, "newshound"

If it's wireless, surely you could simply move it about?
MM
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

That's exactly what I do.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Fri, 04 Mar 2011 15:45:03 GMT, Harry Bloomfield

That's pretty much what the engineer said. He said my TRVs (Honeywell) were pretty good, but a room stat could save loads of money.
MM
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
MM wrote:

If there is no master stat, yes, otherwise fit TRVs?

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

You'd do better with a wired one, if that's feasible. Less prone to interference, and no batteries to replace.
--
Frank Erskine

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Fri, 04 Mar 2011 16:38:22 +0000, Frank Erskine

I reckon that'd cost a s**t load more than 130, though. (Labour)
MM
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Anything that Labour is involved with costs a sh*t load more.
--
Today is Pungenday, the 63rd day of Chaos in the YOLD 3177
Science flies people to the moon; Religion flies people into skyscrapers.
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I got one for about 12.95 this January.
I wired it near the CH programmer (which happened to be in the kitchen), in series with the control cable.
But, I suppose it could go anywhere where the ambient temperature is typical of the rest of the house (or it can always be set a bit higher or lower to compensate), and is easy to connect to the boiler (but not right next to it).
(My TRVs are almost totally useless; they go from 1 (or is it *) to 5. If set at 2, the radiator never gets hot. If set at 3, it never gets cold! If by some miracle the temperature of the rad is just right, then as soon as the weather changes a little, it needs adjusting again. Why aren't they calibrated in degrees?)
--
Bartc


Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Calibrated markings would be meaningless as you're wanting to set the temperature of the room for the main occupancy space on something that sits 6" above the floor next to a radiator. Relative markings (hence 1 to 5) therefore make far more sense: if the current setting doesn't heat the room up high enough, turn it up - and vice versa.
Yours sound like they've almost certainly failed and no longer responding to the variations in temperature (hence they are for all intents and purposes manual wheelhead valves). Indeed, they don't last forever - cheap(er) ones particularly - do you know what make/model/ age they are?
Mathew
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sat, 5 Mar 2011 15:01:58 -0800 (PST), Mathew Newton

My TRVs are Honeywell -- the boiler engineer who came on Friday said they're good quality kit -- and I find them just as much a PITA as BartC does his. My house was built in 2004. Trying to adjust the TRVs to give exactly the right results is an exercise in futility.
MM
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sun, 06 Mar 2011 07:53:38 +0000, MM wrote:

They are susceptible to the temperature of the pipes, so if the boiler is firing infrequently the TRV will open up due to being cold for some time. In less cold weather, this causes an overshoot; in cold weather an undershoot. TRVs need to be turned down and up to adjust for what the boiler's doing, IME. Last year, as I removed and replaced each radiator in turn, I turned the TRVs to the horizontal position and that seems to have stabilised them significantly.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sun, 06 Mar 2011 07:53:38 +0000, MM wrote:

Has the heating system ever been balanced? To do properly takes a quite a while so it's rarely, if ever, done by builders/installers.
OK when the TRV's start to shut down rads it'll screw the balance but in the general heating from cool the system would perform better.
http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/plumbing/rad-balance.html
--
Cheers
Dave.




Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

No it won't - the pressure increase across the rest of the system will rise uniformly (remember: balancing is down to relative resistance, not absolute).
Mathew
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
MM wrote:

I find that their close proximity to the radiator makes them almost useless, beyond a very crude form of wet finger stab.
Even the digital wiresless stat needs a couple of degrees up in really cold dry weather. I feel cold when the air is dry in the house.
But they are better than nothing.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.