Glazing an external door

My daughter has asked me to glaze an external hardwood door she is having made for her. It's a small pane configuration rather than one large sheet of glass. I understand that the joiner will be supplying the beads and the glass will come from the local glazier.
What do I bed the glass into ? I would have thought that something flexible should be used to account for the slight flexing of the door. Putty I would have thought would in due course set hard and crack.
Thanks in advance
Rob
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Butyl rubber tape (almost like a putty on a roll, but doesn't set), from the glazier.
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robgraham wrote:

screwfix do a crystal clear glazing silicone, i used it in the panes above the upstairs doors
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robgraham wrote:

Putty is about the best you can use, or a non setting glazing compound if it's not going to be overpainted: http://www.hodgson-sealants.co.uk/products/phoenix-putty_glazing-compounds.php#Butyl66
Don't be tempted to use silicone - it holds the water in the recess and eventaully rots the timber...cue the uproar.
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Uproar :-! (was tempted to use caps but thankfully refrained)
As a contrast, I've seen too many of such installations fail with water pissing in past the panes (or through the joints) so would recommend a cautious back fill or total fill with silicone. Truly, silicone is an evil substance for getting where it is not intended but sealing of multi-paned windows & doors is (IMO) one of the acceptable uses.
If the door is intended to be semi-secure I'd follow dom's advice of taping the glass in (6.4mm laminated) followed by a back fill of silicone and fitting of glazing beads before it sets.
--
fred
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fred wrote:

If done properly and with great care, it is a good glazing sealant, the trouble is, it's w-a-y too easy to make a balls up with it - I've seen 'professionals' do it wrong....they all try to do the same thing - avoid having it ooze out upwards where the glass meets the rebate or the beadings, presumably because they don't want to cut it/clean it off the glass afterwards, end result is that it's left below the timber line and a gap is present, usually internally *and* externally which holds the rainwater *and* condensation!!

Butyl rubber glazing compound is expensive but it works, it never completely sets or cracks, and is easy to cut, remove/clean up etc afterwards.....it has all the workability of putty but none of the disadvantages.
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Totally agree, potentially good if done properly, evil when (frequently) misused.

Speaking from ignorance, is this like putty on a roll (but better), I use double sided foam 'security' tape to protect vulnerable sites then back-fill with silicone as I said, what's the score with this stuff? On reflection, is it on a roll at all or is it in a tub?
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I think we're all talking about Butyl 66 glazing tape (on a roll) or compound (in a tub). I've only used tape, but I've used it extensively (50ish windows).
Comes in at least 2 thicknesses (e.g. 3mm), comes in several widths (e.g. 10mm) and several colours (black, brown, white). On a roll, it is separated by waxed paper, so you simply unroll and cut a piece to length and press it into place, or unroll directly into place.
Choose a width that matches the glazing rebate on your frame, get exactly the right one and accurate placement is easy. You're aiming for the tape to very slightly overhang the reabte. You need good, tight butt joins between the strips around the window frame too. With lots of small similar windows, it's easier to prepare lots of accurate-length strips to apply.
When you're ready, strip off the waxed tape and apply the glass (you know about the glass being cut slightly undesize and raised slightly on blocks don't you?). The butyl rubber will pick up dust and grit like anything, so make sure the rebate was clean, the glass was clean etc. Press the glass very firmly into the rebate and check very carefully that it has sealed all round, with no non-contact pockets.
The only diy shed I've seen selling tape is Wickes, and it looked to be identical to what I've bought from 2 different glaziers.
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Yes, that's the stuff I meant and use, same technique.
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fred
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fred wrote:

For beaded windows you can use any "general purpose sealant". Apply from cartridge on both sides of the glass. Water based so easy to wipe off any excess. Linseed putty will almost certainly cause the glass to rattle in time.
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On Wed, 20 Sep 2006 13:10:07 GMT, Stuart Noble wrote:

Cool, I'll have to get some linseed putty because at present my glass rattles out of time and it's like really annoying like white people clapping.
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Steve Firth wrote:

Lol!!!
:-p
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robgraham wrote:

My wood doors have a wooden beading lined with putty. Butyl as it happens. Not much is needed.
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robgraham wrote:

Thanks guys for your inputs - apparantly putty is mentioned in the quote, but not which sort so that will have to be sorted ! Particularly appreciate the detailed instructions on fitting.
Rob
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