My daughter has asked me to glaze an external hardwood door she is
having made for her. It's a small pane configuration rather than one
large sheet of glass. I understand that the joiner will be supplying
the beads and the glass will come from the local glazier.
What do I bed the glass into ? I would have thought that something
flexible should be used to account for the slight flexing of the door.
Putty I would have thought would in due course set hard and crack.
Thanks in advance
Putty is about the best you can use, or a non setting glazing compound if
it's not going to be overpainted:
Don't be tempted to use silicone - it holds the water in the recess and
eventaully rots the timber...cue the uproar.
Uproar :-! (was tempted to use caps but thankfully refrained)
As a contrast, I've seen too many of such installations fail with water
pissing in past the panes (or through the joints) so would recommend a
cautious back fill or total fill with silicone. Truly, silicone is an evil
substance for getting where it is not intended but sealing of multi-paned
windows & doors is (IMO) one of the acceptable uses.
If the door is intended to be semi-secure I'd follow dom's advice of taping
the glass in (6.4mm laminated) followed by a back fill of silicone and fitting
of glazing beads before it sets.
If done properly and with great care, it is a good glazing sealant, the
trouble is, it's w-a-y too easy to make a balls up with it - I've seen
'professionals' do it wrong....they all try to do the same thing - avoid
having it ooze out upwards where the glass meets the rebate or the beadings,
presumably because they don't want to cut it/clean it off the glass
afterwards, end result is that it's left below the timber line and a gap is
present, usually internally *and* externally which holds the rainwater *and*
Butyl rubber glazing compound is expensive but it works, it never completely
sets or cracks, and is easy to cut, remove/clean up etc afterwards.....it
has all the workability of putty but none of the disadvantages.
Totally agree, potentially good if done properly, evil when (frequently)
Speaking from ignorance, is this like putty on a roll (but better), I use
double sided foam 'security' tape to protect vulnerable sites then back-fill
with silicone as I said, what's the score with this stuff? On reflection, is it
on a roll at all or is it in a tub?
I think we're all talking about Butyl 66 glazing tape (on a roll) or
compound (in a tub). I've only used tape, but I've used it extensively
Comes in at least 2 thicknesses (e.g. 3mm), comes in several widths
(e.g. 10mm) and several colours (black, brown, white). On a roll, it is
separated by waxed paper, so you simply unroll and cut a piece to
length and press it into place, or unroll directly into place.
Choose a width that matches the glazing rebate on your frame, get
exactly the right one and accurate placement is easy. You're aiming for
the tape to very slightly overhang the reabte. You need good, tight
butt joins between the strips around the window frame too. With lots of
small similar windows, it's easier to prepare lots of accurate-length
strips to apply.
When you're ready, strip off the waxed tape and apply the glass (you
know about the glass being cut slightly undesize and raised slightly on
blocks don't you?). The butyl rubber will pick up dust and grit like
anything, so make sure the rebate was clean, the glass was clean etc.
Press the glass very firmly into the rebate and check very carefully
that it has sealed all round, with no non-contact pockets.
The only diy shed I've seen selling tape is Wickes, and it looked to be
identical to what I've bought from 2 different glaziers.
For beaded windows you can use any "general purpose sealant". Apply from
cartridge on both sides of the glass. Water based so easy to wipe off
Linseed putty will almost certainly cause the glass to rattle in time.
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