Glazing an external door

Butyl rubber tape (almost like a putty on a roll, but doesn't set), from the glazier.

screwfix do a crystal clear glazing silicone, i used it in the panes above the upstairs doors

Putty is about the best you can use, or a non setting glazing compound if it's not going to be overpainted:

Uproar :-! (was tempted to use caps but thankfully refrained)

As a contrast, I've seen too many of such installations fail with water pissing in past the panes (or through the joints) so would recommend a cautious back fill or total fill with silicone. Truly, silicone is an evil substance for getting where it is not intended but sealing of multi-paned windows & doors is (IMO) one of the acceptable uses.

If the door is intended to be semi-secure I'd follow dom's advice of taping the glass in (6.4mm laminated) followed by a back fill of silicone and fitting of glazing beads before it sets.

If done properly and with great care, it is a good glazing sealant, the trouble is, it's w-a-y too easy to make a balls up with it - I've seen 'professionals' do it wrong....they all try to do the same thing - avoid having it ooze out upwards where the glass meets the rebate or the beadings, presumably because they don't want to cut it/clean it off the glass afterwards, end result is that it's left below the timber line and a gap is present, usually internally *and* externally which holds the rainwater *and* condensation!!

Butyl rubber glazing compound is expensive but it works, it never completely sets or cracks, and is easy to cut, remove/clean up etc afterwards.....it has all the workability of putty but none of the disadvantages.

Totally agree, potentially good if done properly, evil when (frequently) misused.

Speaking from ignorance, is this like putty on a roll (but better), I use double sided foam 'security' tape to protect vulnerable sites then back-fill with silicone as I said, what's the score with this stuff? On reflection, is it on a roll at all or is it in a tub?

My wood doors have a wooden beading lined with putty. Butyl as it happens. Not much is needed.

I think we're all talking about Butyl 66 glazing tape (on a roll) or compound (in a tub). I've only used tape, but I've used it extensively (50ish windows).

Comes in at least 2 thicknesses (e.g. 3mm), comes in several widths (e.g. 10mm) and several colours (black, brown, white). On a roll, it is separated by waxed paper, so you simply unroll and cut a piece to length and press it into place, or unroll directly into place.

Choose a width that matches the glazing rebate on your frame, get exactly the right one and accurate placement is easy. You're aiming for the tape to very slightly overhang the reabte. You need good, tight butt joins between the strips around the window frame too. With lots of small similar windows, it's easier to prepare lots of accurate-length strips to apply.

When you're ready, strip off the waxed tape and apply the glass (you know about the glass being cut slightly undesize and raised slightly on blocks don't you?). The butyl rubber will pick up dust and grit like anything, so make sure the rebate was clean, the glass was clean etc. Press the glass very firmly into the rebate and check very carefully that it has sealed all round, with no non-contact pockets.

The only diy shed I've seen selling tape is Wickes, and it looked to be identical to what I've bought from 2 different glaziers.

In article , snipped-for-privacy@gglz.com writes

Yes, that's the stuff I meant and use, same technique.

For beaded windows you can use any "general purpose sealant". Apply from cartridge on both sides of the glass. Water based so easy to wipe off any excess. Linseed putty will almost certainly cause the glass to rattle in time.

Cool, I'll have to get some linseed putty because at present my glass rattles out of time and it's like really annoying like white people clapping.

:-p

Thanks guys for your inputs - apparantly putty is mentioned in the quote, but not which sort so that will have to be sorted ! Particularly appreciate the detailed instructions on fitting.

Rob