I HAD considered running a gas pipe from the front of the house to the rear
kitchen, but I think this will
either necessitate going under newly-laid wood flooring in the lounge & new
carpet in dining area to do this, OR
somehow digging outside the house & running the pipe that way (which I think
would be a nightmare
with Gas/Council, etc), both options which I am very reluctant to do, hence
my original question about
routing upwards. The loft itself isn`t boarded or anything, but I might have
to go that way, and get it legally set up
to house the combi, with light/ladder, etc.. Personally, I don`t have a
problem with the flue coming out the front wall,
but is this something which I may not be allowed to do?
I don't know if there is a general rule against it. However, the plume from
modern condensing boilers is visible and would look pretty bad if the front
of your house is visible. You'll probably get a caller at the door once a
week to tell you that your house is on fire.
At the very least, you'd be better off with a vertical terminal going
straight up. This wouldn't be expensive and is less likely to cause a
nuisance or confusion in passers by.
In any case, a house with electric cooker, a boiler mounted in the master
bedroom and a huge great plume of steam blasting into the street is unlikely
to attract potential purchasers when you come to sell.
Bloor Homes have just finished a development in centre of my village
with just this arrangement. Houses 2 feet from pavement, kitchen at
front of house and wall mounted glow-worm condensing boiler squirting
out steam at just above head height. Actually, even during recent cold
spell the plume didn't seem to be too offensive, travelling out about 3
to 4 feet. Interestingly, the flue terminal seem to be offset within the
circular air intake, i.e. touching the top of the outer circle and
projecting out about 9 inches.
I previously posted a query about replacing a non-condensing FF wall
mounted boiler with a condenser - the flue is sloping the wrong way for
the new boiler.
Is the offset arrangement a way to use the existing hole while allowing
the flue to slope back towards the boiler ?.
This is perhaps a bit excessive. Most boiler instruction sheets seem
to suggest a slope of a few degrees back towards the boiler.
Depending on the design of the flue components, lifting the terminal
plate slightly to achieve the slope can offset the appearance as you
It really depends on the positions of the flue between the different
For example, my old Glow Worm junk boiler was a natural draught type
and the hole for the flue terminal was square and centred about a
third of the way down at the back so totally within the boiler
footprint on the wall.
The new one can take a variety of flue arrangements and has a
concentric fitting hole on the top. Into that you can fit a
concentric flue system as I have which starts with a 92 degree elbow
and then there is a concentric section that plugs into that to form
the section through the wall and the terminal. Looking at the outside
I can see that the terminal is not quite perpendicular to the wall
plate but points very slightly upwards as it should.
This arrangement means that the hole through the wall is above the
boiler and I had to make good the old hole.
Another arrangement that I could have had is an adaptor that fits the
top of the boiler and splits the flue arrangement into two separate
50mm sockets to accept 50mm high temperature waste pipe as the flue
(similar to Keston)
To be honest, I would figure out which boiler you want to have and
then see what the flue arrangement is. It is not a big deal to
have the flue in a different position. The 50mm plastic pipe
arrangements can be great if you need to cover an awkward situation
and direct the vent somewhere else. In a way there is something to
be said for having a long flue within the building because a bit more
of the water vapour will condense and a bit more heat will be released
from the warm flue gases into the building rather than outside.
To email, substitute .nospam with .gl
The design of the Condensfit II flue system for the Worcester-Bosch
Greenstar does this. It means that if you install the standard horizontal
flue with no extensions, then hardly any slope needs to be provided.
However, it still needs 0.5 degree upslope away from the boiler and any
extensions fitted will mean the full 3 degrees needs to be provided for. I
think it is probably more for appearance than anything else.
It would have to be 2m above the pavement or there would have to be a
flue-guard over it.
Actually, even during recent cold
I think it is that some manufacturers have this arrangement for their
terminals whilst others don't.
When cutting a hole for the flue there is a slight clearance this can be
used to good effect so as to get the flue to tilt up or down a little as
needed by a particular installation.
In general the existing flue would only ever be reused if the exact type
of boiler were replaced like for like.
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at www.diyfaq.org.uk
Best put the boiler in the loft with the flue through a tile, or break into
a chimney breast and run the flue up an existing unused chimney flue. Then
the hot draw-off pipe can drop into the bedrooms/bathroom and pick up the
draw-off there. It will be a win, win, situation as you will have a usable
loft for storage.
You hit the nail on the head there, boy.. BTW, thanks for all your comments,
some useful, some not.
Think I`m going to go for the loft option, tiresome as it is, having to prep
the area with boards/light/ladder, etc.
Consider insulating the rafters to make a warm loft, cold roof situation.
This will prevent freezing of the pipes and provide better storage
conditions for your new found loft storage area. (As well as reducing your
I prefer belt and braces myself. I have insulated rafters AND pipe
insulation (at least when I've finished, I will). Also, I doubt that pipe
insulation will necessarily stop the condensate drain from freezing under
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