Garage door Insulation & draughtproofing

Use Celotex/Kingspan instead of polystyrene. It is only a small area, so the cost won't be prohibitive, but the insulation will be double.

You may find that the up-and-over mechanism either need adjustment, although I suspect it will be OK, as insulation doesn't weigh as much as the steel.

Christian.

I did this and measured the behaviour of the electric door openers before and after. It was negligible. Weight of Celotex is much less than doors.

I used vinyl seals (big heavy grade ones) and that seems to do a good job of draught proofing.

I've stuck 25mm xtratherm in mine, 'negligible weight increase. I was going to skin the inside with oil-tempered hardboard but the weight increase was too much; after a few experiments I've decided to use Correx sign board as a skin as it's tough enough, light and cheap.

To seal the bottom half of the verticals I've formed a small lip on the frame that the door shuts onto. Next step is to add a rubber "O" section (from a car trimmer) to the top but I can't find anything at a sensible price for the bottom.

Snip snip

I did that to mine using 3/4 inch polystyrene and it is great. I also battened the walls and roof and put 3/4 inch polystyrene on those as well with plasterboard on the top. It all made a great difference.

Don't add to much weight to the door or it will affect the balance.

Consider fire risk. Opening a blazing up and over door to get out could be interesting.

but I can't find anything at a sensible

I used 22mm pipe insulation, which fits over the steel bottom edge, and crushes slightly. The garage door opener didn't object!

regards Capitol