Arghhh... I have spent the last few weekends preparing a front door for painting. Yesterday I put a glosscoat on, and left the door open for about 16 hours before it had to be closed. This morning the door frame has marked it, and in a few patches it has gone wrinkly - and it is still tacky! Back to the sander I suppose - any suggestions for next time?
Cheers,
Ben
Sounds like you put too much on in one coat. It should dry eventually, and you can give it a light rub down followed by a very, very thin coat to even everything up. That said, a lot of this "one coat" exterior stuff is so bulked out with aggregate that it's impossible to apply a thin coat
When I used to paint my doors I rubbed a little baby oil along the inner door frame & draft excluders. This stopped the door from being marked or binding.
Kinky I know, but each to is own ;-))
Don.
I usually cut a thick plastic refuse bag into wide strips and place them between the areas which contact each other. At least overnight but sometimes for up to a week.
Good fun getting them in place if it's windy...
I may have some serious sanding to do where there are wrinkles or the frame has marked... will new sections of paint mesh with the old, or will the whole thing need another coat?
Cheers,
Ben
You can't do much until the existing paint is dry i.e. you can't mark it with your thumb nail. Heavy coats tend to become touch dry on the surface but trap solvents inside the coating, which can take several days to evaporate. After that, scraping with a stanley blade at 45 degs to and fro might be more effective on the wrinkles because sanding generates heat, melts paint etc. Once you have it smooth to the touch, another thin coat all over. This should dry quite quickly :-)
Ok - I'll leave it for a bit. Of course there may be an issue that the surface will be pitted where there has been selective scraping, which will be evident through the thin layer also.
I hope I don't need to break out the paint stripper :-)
Ben
I don't think you have the reason for the paint not setting. Modern paints set pretty quickly. I imagine you removed or failed to stir in the top layer when you opened the can.
The reason it would have looked wrinkled rather than it had "run" might be some chemical on the door you used in the preparation. What might that have been?
Don't go there
I didn't stir the paint, but I shook the can hard for a good 30 seconds before starting, which I assumed would have done the trick...
If it says stir - then stir it.
I always try to remove doors and lay them horizontally - not practical for your front door I guess. However, I have sometimes tried to hang the door too soon and have left thumb prints. I now re-fit the handle and try not to touch the painted face.
Makes no difference IME. If a good shake doesn't disperse it evenly, it's probably shit paint.
As you say, not practical for front doors and paint that takes 16 hours or whatever to dry.
Well, I left it open for 16 hours. Even now it is stil lscratchable with a thumbnail. I think I might strip it (groan) again and try another paint. The primer went on incredibly easily -no drips, quick drying, lovely smooth finish. Maybe I could use a spray...or just a different paint brand! It won't happen this weekend I suspect as it is still to soft to sand easily.
Review the situation this time next week :-)
I am going to be kind to you and presume you read my reply but are too stupid to know how to reply to it properly.
You will have to strip the door. This will take the undercoat off too, so that you can start from scratch.
I suggest you read up on painting doors and then hire someone that knows what he is doing to repair your work.
If it says stir on the tin then it should be stirred. The thickness of paint and the small gap between the paint and the lid means that shaking is not sufficient to mix all the contents of the tin evenly. If shaking was satisfactory then they would say to shake on the tin. What brand of paint did you use? In my experience own-brand paint is rubbish, especially gloss top coat.
Nutcase
That's how it's mixed if you buy custom shades, and those tints they use are so powerful that anything short of perfect dispersion would be disastrous.
If shaking was
Little old ladies may not be able to shake two litres of paint. Stirring is a compromise, but nowhere near as thorough.
What brand of paint
Yebbut come on - custom mixes are prepared on a bloody great vibrating machine oscillating for (say) a minute at 2000 rpm; totally different to the OP shaking it for 30 secs at (say) 100 rpm.
Plus, many paints are so thick - especially those for the diy market - that there is no way that 30 secs shaking of a full tin (as mentioned above) is going to disperse any inconsistencies within the paint.
David
I have to agree - shaking seems impractical for the reasons you mention, not enough room to achieve anything. Especially true with one coat paints or any thicker paints. It may work for the runny cheap own-brand crap.
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