I doubt it.
It doesn't look 30A capable - you need at least 25A for 7Kw
That's a cooker switch or better, and cooker switches don't have to meet continuous load.
Id go for a more industrial thing
You are entirely correct, I was thinking from a practical viewpoint.
Given the wire is copper and connectors are brass, they have a different thermal expansion coefficient. Even where a terminal is loose following a thermal failure it would still be difficult to apportion blame to the electrician rather than some other failure.
If he says he tightened up with his magic screwdriver to the correct torque, how would you prove otherwise.
My thought too. The highest rated MCB's should be closest to the incoming power (so closest to the RCD).
I suspect the busbar connected to the RCD was not tight enough too, perhaps because thats where the heat seems to be ??
The one in the photo has Omega markings and looks like this:
Can you provide a cite for this? It's not what I would expect. I could of course be wrong.
Looks OTT to me and intended for 3-phase and neutral, but YMMV.
Those look like the isolators used when you have just a 4KW solar panel setup.
Actually I don't know. I'm not an electrician, just a fool in an armchair posting on the interwebs.
For interest what max current are busbars made to handle in a 100A consumer split load unit? That figure, or less?
I'm now aware of electricians using torque setting screwdrivers to tighten fusebox screws. Some time ago I had reinstalled a pull cord shower isolator switch (after the builders insecurely screwed it to some laths in the plaster that couldn't take the cord itself being yanked) and saw the terminals had been damaged from heat. I didn't twig anything about lack of screw tightness being the cause.
As my fusebox is some rewirable fuse relic from the distant seventies (shower on an ancillary) .... erm, I need to see about all getting replaced sometime.
Do you need an Amazon Prime account to post these pics ?
This switch was wired so that turning it on shorted live and neutral.
That's the role of the expert witness. You would need to see what his/her report says before deciding whether to proceed to proof.
I think so.
Tim
I have not noticed torque settings for domestic mains electrical fittings, so I am wondering if these should always be marked somewhere?
If I installed a 7kw electric car charger it would likely draw more continuous current than any (maybe all) other device in my house. I would think this would be true for many properties.
118A of MCBs on a 80A RCD, but I doubt all the circuits would be fully loaded for long, are the righthand 32A MCBs both rings?
Assume the EV charger is on the leftmost MCB? Looks more as though the terminals onto the live busbar weren't properly tight ...
I am curious as to why there is an isolation switch.
All the EV chargers I have fitted have a one built in.
Now should that charger (I have no idea what make of charger it was) have been fed from that type of RCD?
I may be wrong, but I thought each busbar was only rated for 60A for a
100A CU. With the presumption that the load would be split more or less equally to both sides of the CU.I am pretty sure the highest rated circuit should be next the RCD, next to the main switch.
If I was the OP I would check the position of this MCB, after all it be the one with the highest continuous current, and check with the CU manufacturer's installation guide.
There is something odd about the second from left MCB (in relation to the RCD). It does not appear to sit level with the other MCBs and is also appers to be most melted MCB.
This could suggest that the bus bar was not correctly located inside the MCB or that it was not tightened up properly.
Um, I?ve never seen a domestic charger with one built in. My Podpoint doesn?t have one. I have a RCBO switch next to my consumer unit for isolating mine.
It was a Project EV charger.
Tim
You are going back to the days of Wylex fuse boards. They always had that rule and some of them had an extra fuse to the right of the main switch for high loads.
The Wylex CU in the photo will have no problem with the layout of the MCBs and is good for 100A.
I believe they have a built in DC protection device to keep the house RCD working.
Looks like 45A so should be ok, but why fit it in the first place?
In the leftmost MCB it does look fatter than the 2.5s on the ring circuits. more A few things which although not "wrong" do look like "my mate fitted it" standard.
1) why fit a shower/cooker isolator for an EV charger? 2) why use SY flex?3) what's the extra black cable that's tyrap'ed to the flex? A lead to a current monitoring transformer?
But mainly
4) it's managed to overhead terminals in both the CU and switch, most likely due to loose connections.HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.