I'm doing some work on the power steering rack, and the workshop manual says the external parts of the rack (covered by the gaiter) should be smeared with BP Energrease FLG Fluidgrease.
My local large motor factors offered a different brand Fluidgrease, but this was a thick liquid, whereas the remains of the original was definitely a grease - clear in colour.
Is there a commonly available substitute?
The rack uses Dexron, if that matters. I'd rather do things right as it's a new old stock rack with one of the gaiters damaged and the grease underneath therefore dirty.
A bit of reading gives the auto box which uses the same fluid using Vaseline to hold bits in place etc, so that is obviously safe with the fluid and seals, but has it sufficient lubricating properties?
Fluidgrease gets thicker over time, so the stuff you where offered will probably be exactly the same as any other fluidgrease. But the first thing you should do is repair or replace the gaiter so grit and shit don't get in to the moving parts. It's the worst thing to happen to gearing and ball joints on motors.
The grease is not so much a lubricant. More of a corrosion protection. It doesn't come into contact with the hyd fluid, as whatever grease is on the shaft initially, gets wiped off by the seals, the first time it goes from end to end. OK, maybe a trace, a molecule or two. :-) Certainly not enough to affect the hyd fluid. The gaiter protects the shaft and seals from the ingress of road grit, water, and damage etc. As long as they are in good condition, I'd recommend using the fluid grease offered by your factor, or vaseline. It really isn't that critical. Mike.
What's a NOS? Cam Gears rack. Is that a technical name for the later CG variable rack? What rack does it have at present. The Alford & Alder? If it has, you'll notice the difference. The CG rack is far superior. More weighted, with much better feedback. You can almost feel the road surface and what the front wheels are doing. And only about 2.5 turns from lock to lock. One thing I don't like about the BM's steering. It's too low geared. The A&A rack is crap in comparison to the CG one. Dunno about the Burman. I've never seen or driven an SD1 with one fitted. An earlier 2.6 of mine had the A&A box. I replaced it with one from CG, and was amazed at the difference it made. As a sub contractor I managed to fiddle it at about half price through their staff sales. Cost about £50 IIRC :-) Fortunately my Vitesse had the CG box already fitted. Only a 5 minute job to change BTW. Well, maybe half an hour. :-) Mike.
Yes - a re-con from Rimmers - that's all they currently can supply. The previous one was a Burman, I think, as it was different to both the A&A and C C - it had cast mounting brackets at both ends. But I couldn't get spares to fix the worn inner ball joints.
That's what I'd heard, and why I bought it - I don't like the A & A.
Well, you need a six cylinder E39 - it's got R&P steering instead of the rather woolly steering box on the E34. It's a vast improvement.
You've got to lift the engine till it groans, and it's still a fiddle. Then there's the hassle of getting the tracking set central - which seems to defeat the average fast fit place. But at least the CG rack has an accessible centre finder.
Must be less accessible than on the 2.6 then. I converted a manual to p/s on an early one. and changed the box on a later one. Neither needed the engine lifted.
What I've always done when starting from scratch, and it seems to work very well to get a fairly good initial setting. With the rack 'bolted' central and the car level. Sight across the back tyre to the front tyre, taking into account any difference in track. Then adjust the track rods to give a just visible toe-in both sides. An alternative, using the same principle is to use a piece of string around the back of the rear tyre on the c/l. tighten it, and move it towards the car until it just touches the front of the tyre. Then see how it lines up with the front tyre. Sounds crude, but the times I've done, it's surprising how little adjustment has been needed at the garage when it's been tracked properly.
I've mentioned that before. TBH I thaught most racks had a similar provision. Mike.
No sign of any woolliness on mine at all. It feels as direct and as positive as most other cars I've driven with R&P boxes. Good self centreing, and no hint of wander. As far as just the steering is concerned, I'd say it's equally as good as that of my Vitesse or Celica. Both with R&P. Apart from all the wheel twiddling necessary when manouvering, I'm quite happy with it. Maybe I've just been lucky in picking up an E34 with a well sorted steering setup. Wasn't always so apparently. A good part of the reason for the fitting of the M-Tech suspension, lowering, shocks, wheels, was to sort out steering problems, (wander, vagueness etc) that the previous owners BMW dealer seemed unable to fix. Mike.
All the E34s I've driven - several - are not as positive at the straight ahead position as I'd like, and certainly don't have the 'feel'. And since BMW now fit R&P to each new model, I'd guess they agree. I think they stuck with it for so long because of the US market
The SD1 is hardly a paragon of good steering feel. Don't know the Celica.
Seems to be a common complaint. But the usual reason isn't the steering itself (despite the multiple swivels), but the suspension bushes - made worse the larger the wheels fitted. Fashion - these big wheels with rubber band tyres has much to answer for, while imparting little in the way of better handling for most.
I've not tried an E34 with the M tech package. I have driven a V-8 E39 which stuck with the old steering, and it was enough of a disappointment to quite put me off ever wanting one.
They for a long time were used to sloppy low geared steering, and a quick positive rack caused problems with the 'sneeze factor' Of course, some prefer not to get any kickback from road surfaces, etc.
BMW slowed down the R&P steering on the current 3 Series after complaints from US customers.
The Vitesse is excellent as far as feel is concerned. I've not driven any cars AFAIK, that are renowned for their good steering, but my bros new Mitsubishi EVO VII's steering didn't feel as good. The difference between the Vitesse and a std SD1 is quite remarkable. Like driving a totally different car. The lower and stiffer suspension, along with the harder suspension bushes that are fitted to the Vitesse can be the only reason for this difference, as virtually everything else on all the models is the same. I do make a distinction between a car going where it's pointed, without the steering being affected too much by camber, road surface, white lines etc, and another car, which as well as the above, gives a good feedback of how much grip the tyres have. Braking, cornering etc. The E34 seems as good as the Vitesse for the former, but nowhere near as good with the latter. :-)
Don't know the Celica.
Very much point and squirt with very direct steering.
Personally I prefer a reasonably firm ride. IME a softer ride usually means less feel for the road and feedback from the steering, although never having driven a std E34, I can't compare it with the one I have. For me though, the proof is in the difference beween the Vitesse and other SD1's. Apart from engine size and weight they are all the same. The only exception is the Vitesse. It stands out from the others with it's vastly improved roadholding. I would assume that up to a point, stiffening and lowering most std road cars, would have a similar result at the expense of making the car less comfortable in the opinion of some. It's logical to assume new cars are built to appeal to the most buyers. Two elements of which, are the most attractive compromise between absolute comfort, and best roadholding. The manufacturers can't give both IMO. Some get nearer to it than others, but no fast sports car is ever going to give the comfort of say, a limousine. Or vice-versa come to that. :-) Mike.
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