I have a flat lead roof covering a bay window. This is single piece and
brick jointed along a single straight 3 metre continuous run.
I have just raked the whole thing out to cure a leak (That's where it was
I've read on this NG about expansion contraction problems on long runs.
I've raked it out good and deep and intend to PVA the joint before a
standard sand & cement pointing session ensues. Anything else I should do
to ensure longevity? I won't be going to the extremes/expense of removing
or replacing the lead.
Actually now on closer inspection, on one small section (a few inches) there
is not enough lead to go into the joint by more than a few mm. The rest is
fine about 20mm. Can I solder an extension?
I've just messed about with some scraps and it seems I can even use lead
free solder. Technique seems to be a slow gradual build up of temperature
as its very easy to blow holes in it! I think perhaps a 5mm overlap, shiney
as I can get it, plenty of flux and a gradual work along one end to tuther.
Alot harder than endfeeding copper though!!
The best way to over come the lack of inturn into the brick joint, is to put
an apron of lead over the top. Depending on the up stand you have from the
base of the flat roof up to the brick joint. Just bend a strip of lead at
right angle, with 25mm into the brick joint, the length can be up to 1.5m.
What's so special about PVA.
I've pointed hundreds of metres of Lead to brick joints in my work and also
seen brick layers point Lead work to brick joints. Never used or seen any
one in the building trade use PVA in conjunction with pointing brick joints.
If you read the Lead work manual it states "point with Lead pointing
compound" common name for this is LEADMATE. Before any one jumps in and says
I'm wrong. Pointing with sand & cement doesn't allow for expansion. Adding
PVA will only grip even more.
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