I have one or two loose quarry tiles that were laid on a 1" mortar base 25 years ago.Rather than trying to extract a single tile without damaging the others someone suggested pouring condensed milk around the tile and it will glue it back. Does it work? Michael
Styrene butadiene rubber.
I would recommend Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure.
No, I'm not kidding. ;-)
I suspect someone saw what looked like condensed milk - PVA looks quite close... might even smell close :-)
Are the tiles on an outside wall? Quarry tiles can become loose by their own accord, or it may indicate localised damp. If the tiles are gloss painted then any damp will be revealed by bubbling as the mosture causes adhesion failure. If there is damp typical causes are a leaking soil pipe, toilet overflow weeping (wind blows down overflow, weeps back along pipe), guttering leak nearby, horizontal rain driven by prevailing wind through open brick vents, cable traversing cable angled downwards, plus a bridged cavity from previous wall penetration debris or original builder's work.
If no damp, PVA will work fine trickled behind. Very effective at bracing blown plaster where you do not want to remove a full section.
If damp, SBR is the waterproof version. B&Q do a 1L tub, I think Screwfix only do a larger bottle. The variation in SBR I believe is the amount of solids - ie, some is diluted. That said, SBR is SBR for this application and it is useful for general building repairs (any wet roof pointing, cement, rebedding will only last properly if SBR'd).
It is true that PVA/SBR are "miracle penetrators" re taking a friable but porous material and creating a quite viable hardened surface. Sort of like wood penetrating epoxies - it creepds deep into porous materials effectively (floors, walls, old plaster sand-cement browning, crumbling old plaster). Just do not use PVA/SBR as an "always added" because it makes removal of say plaster extremely difficult - eg, PVA is not required in the mix over capping (or you will need both hands to rip even a thin covering of plaster off the wall). PVA'd wall and emulsion or wallpaper do not mix (it rewets).
Not exactly. ;-)
I have been using SBR admixtures in concrete since the early 1980s, when they were relatively new. Twenty-odd years later, it is quite funny to see them described as 'the "new" PVA'.
On Fri, 22 Jan 2010 13:58:07 +0000, Bruce wibbled:
Isn't it just. I'd never heard of it till last year (on here) and I've not met a builder yet who has (PVA is still the "new chewing gum" to the ones round here)
On Fri, 22 Jan 2010 05:36:58 -0800, "js.b1" wibbled:
Could you mention a little more of this please - I have a need to harden up a bit of wood... Have heard it mentioned, but not with enough detail to locate it for sale...
Ta
Tim
Look for Ronseal Wet Rot Wood hardener - amazing stuff - Instructions on the can suggest that you remove the worst affected meterial until you get to something reasonably solid - then flood the area with the potion (paintbrush) or even syringe...
Sets like rock - currently holding a signigifant proprotion of the back end of my Moggy Traveller together, until I can get round to replacing the dodgy ash!
Adrian
Google for Wood Hardener. Beware the lid is brilliant at seizing solid.
For large fill in areas I believe people prefer a flexible epoxy filler. That sort of sounds contradictory, but would be interesting - the reason paint doesn't last 15yrs is the expansion & contraction of wood. I suspect some fillers struggle to bond to "fibrous loose wood" which is still drying out, so I suspect a combination of wood hardener and filler might be more reliable. Best is new wood, but that is not always possible re FENSA nonsense.
I've heard this about condensed milk 40yrs ago, for re fixing dislodged tile from the 1950s tiles surrounds fire places, don=92t know wither it works. As others have stated SBR is the answer.
No surprise there. ;-)
For 99% of jobs, PVA is just fine. But for refixing the quarry tile, Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure wins every time! The secret ingredient that makes it work so well is ...
...
...
I don't know what it is! It's a secret!
But I strongly suspect it is styrene-butadiene rubber. ;-)
The reason Captain Tolley's works well is that the fluid has extremely low viscosity and penetrates very effectively.
Seconded. I first used it about 20 years ago and the repair is still good.
My mother had been quoted hundreds of pounds at 1980s prices to replace some softwood window sills on some large curved bay windows. Instead, I used the hardener.
As you described above, I cut out the worst of the rot and cleaned it out thoroughly, then applied the hardener. Finally I filled the holes with a mixture of Plastic Padding and sawdust. The holes were quite large.
WD-40 surely...
There is a composite wood made from resin & wood (quite a lot ends up that way anyway as you have found!)
I wonder if it has sufficient wood properties to cut/drill/saw/machine the same? If so it would make an interesting alternative to existing uPVC and might be easily painted, with longer life achievable than wooden surfaces.
make a replacement for Thiokol rubber 8-)
Really?! Now that's worth knowing...
Now where did I leave that leaky caravan?
No, condensed milk is a traditional fix for this sort of problem (I think it's in Spon's Workshop Receipts).
However so is using ox blood and horsehair as additives in plastering. Things might just have progressed a bit since then.
On Fri, 22 Jan 2010 16:06:00 +0000, Bruce wibbled:
Thank you both - I shall get some of that!
On Fri, 22 Jan 2010 07:21:21 -0800, "js.b1" wibbled:
Thanks - will do :)
Not sure that's much of an impediment ;->
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