I'm fitting a new bath for someone at the moment, just wondered what
people's experiences of the following were?
The new bath is about 1in (25mm) longer than the room into which it is
to be fitted. After consulting with the homeowner it has been decided
to whack a notch out of the wall at the tail end of the bath. It's a
non load bearing partition wall so shouldn't be that much of a problem
to create the notch.
However a 25mm deep notch does sound a bit deep to me. Presumably this
is something that others have had to do in the past. Any experiences?
25mm sounds like quite a lot but depends on the wall I suppose and how much
of the bath you'll "lose". I'd be as concerened about losing space behind
the taps or at the other end as much as the wall. What about 12.5mm off each
end? Just about the thickness of a sheet of plasterboard so even easier if
the walls are drylined.
Had a similar problem with my bath, solution was to just cut a groove in the
rear wall (which was a standard plasterboard affair) and shove the back end
of the bath (i.e. not the tap end) into it. There's only about 15mm in
there, then just stick some putty in the gap and seal, job done.
Mine's exactly the same, too small a gap even though it's a "smaller"
bath even without any plaster on the walls. Just altered the position
and size of the big groove the previous bath had been hacked into,
still took me an hour of swearing and sweating to get it into the
space though. ;-)
The wall in question is solid blocks and isn't supporting and the
previous notch has been there 25 plus years so I wasn't too worried
Fill the gap in and tile down to the top of the bath.
heh. I had the same issue, however it was an imperial (75"?) bath that
was chopped in to the wall. A 1700 bath is even longer, I opted for a
Much easier all round, but not very good for my 6'1" frame ;-(
Nope. Removed the pedestal unit first. Then used a rotozip to chop the
bath in half to get it out (it was going down the tip anyway).
I have at this moment in time one half of the bath out in the back
garden ready for disposal. The other half I haven't quite figured how
to disconnect yet.
I've turned off the water supply via the valves in the airing cupboard
and the cold shuts down nicely. But the hot tap in the bath (lowest
point in the system) has continued to dribble all night. Can't get
under the taps to freeze the pipe and the only other option is to take
the kitchen sink unit apart on the other side of the wall to access
the pipe from there.
Just having a quiet think about this at the moment. I'm sure
inspiration will set in.....
Damned plumbers. And we pay them how much?????
How about you put an old towel down on the floor, then chop the hot pipe
with a pipe-slice and quickly whack a compression cap over it? When you
want to reconnect, you can use a compression coupler and reuse the nut
and olive from the cap.
That's more or less what I did. Only the pipeslice wouldn't turn on
the curved pipe (the plumber had bent the pipe from the wall into the
Ended up rotozipping the end of the bath out so that I could get to
the plumbing thru a hole. Bastard job this one.
This is something I had to do in my house. After fitting and tiling, I am
not greatly happy about the job and regret not taking the plaster off the
walls to make it fit. The previous bath was fitted into a notch, so didn't
really think about it too much.
I don't suppose it will be of any consequence unless the bath needs to be
taken out for any reason, when the tiling etc will be destroyed.
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Its no big deal depending on what the wall is made off and how
structural it is. UI.e. a plasterboard clad non loda bearing stiud wall
is a cince. I'd be less happey pulling it out of e.g. a bock single
thubnkcness internal LOAD BEEARING wall.
If it is a fiber glass or acrylic bath, and the end would have been
buried in the wall anyway, consider angle grinding 1/2" off the bath
end. This will reduce stiffness, but if it is glued into teh wall that
should be no problem...
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