Bargain bathtub?

I'm looking for a cheapo, short (1600mm) bathtub - given that this one is steel, isn't it particularly good deal for a steel one (68 GBP), even with 47.50 shipping? Or am I missing something?

Ebay 120074000720

Any suggestions for alternative sources for low-end bathroom furniture gratefully received (my excellent local bath emporium has sadly just closed down :-(

David

Reply to
Lobster
Loading thread data ...

Plumbitall have one at =A341.99

formatting link

Reply to
atticus

above is 1700mm; the 1600mm version is 69 GBP ;-) !)

Now, I need to fit a panel along the side/front - I'd normally do this using a matching plastic thing supplied at the same time as the bath, but the Plumbitall one didn't look like it would cut down well to 1600mm.

What would be the preferred material to use for this, given bathroom/moisture concerns?

Thanks David

Reply to
Lobster

MDF.

Glue (or screw where appropriate) battens to the bath and wall and floor with car body filler or no more nails, cut MDF to size..I like around

15mm - and screw down with countersunk pilots.

If flooring not down yet, seal base with silicone to prevent water seeping under.

Fill with plastic wood, sand flush, and paint with emulsion.

Or tile.

Its a bath panel the kids WON'T be able to kick in... MDF is a great material as long as its covered up..

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

I'd go along with that except I'd suggest using ply wood. The panel can also be fixed to the cradle arms on a plastic bath. I did a couple by drilling, tapping and using a stainless machine screws. You can also fix beading onto the ply to give the effective illusion of 'panelling'; two wide rectangles is about "right".

Reply to
Ed Sirett

Ply is a slightly stronger material, but in most cases its more prone to delaminating when wet, and the surface finish needs extra work when painted. It is also more expensive.

>
Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

Thanks both.

Doesn't MDF do a weetabix impression when wet, like chipboard?

David

Reply to
Lobster

Made a start on installing this today. However, I've never fitted a steel one before and am concerned at how to get it suitably rigid. When it stands on its 4 feet, there's probably 0.5" play at the top edge, as you'd get with an acrylic bath, but acrylic ones have a concealed timber strip around the rim that you can screw an L-bracket to, and then screw that to the wall.

However, the steel bath has no such timber, or any holes etc I could use to screw through. What's the usual way of doing this? Should I just silicone the top edge of the bath to the wall and hoipe for the best?

Thanks David

Reply to
Lobster

Use a batten screwed to the wall, and use car body filler to attach any other wood you need to the steel to brace it wherever needed. Degrease and rough up the steel a bit first. Holts P38, or JB weld or chemical metal are the names to look for - see Halfords.

Silicone is a great sealer, but an indifferent glue except in shear..never use it in tension.

You can make a cheap flexi bath as rigid as a cast iron one with enough bits of ply and car body filler. Take teh time and do it. You won't regret it.

I also glue batten under the lip to allow a flush mounting MDF panel. In fact I usually also then put another batten along the floor and make the whole thing into a stud wall using 2x2. Then if its got halfway decent legs they support they base, and flexy sides get sheets of scrap MDF or ply slapped on with car body filler.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

Recently fitted a steel Bette bath. Supported it and bedded it in silicon on 2x3 timbers fixed to wall. Do the silicon bead with bath full of water and after allowing the first silicon to set. Robert

Reply to
robert

Put the bath into position. mark a line on the wall, all the way along the top edge of the bath (once you've levelled it up, obviously) remove the bath, and measure the thickness of the edge of the bath, some are thicker than others, some have a rolled edge, but for example, say it's

25mm. Affix a batten, 3X2 or whatever to the wall, exactly 25mm down from your line, put bath back in place, make sure the legs are unscrewed so that not all the weight is bearing down on the timbers.

A tip here is to not use thick timber where the taps/overflow will be, nor to take the battens right up to the outer face, IE, where the bath panel is going to be.

HTH

Reply to
Phil L

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.