Fitting a metal fence to a sunken wall

I need to fit a metal fence to a garden wall. The attached photos show an e xample of the fence that's already fitted to another wall plus the wall its elf and the bit of old cast iron fence that remains.
As you can see from the wall photo, the wall has sunk so the fence will bri dge that and I'm planning to install it using resin fixings with nuts both above and below the fixing plates. I might fill in the gap with wood or som ething to make it look a bit less obvious that the post doesn't meet the wa ll.
Inevitably the bits of old cast iron shown will get in the way at some poin t so I'm wondering about the best way to remove them. Will the break off if I just hit them with a hammer? How about a multitool with a suitable blade ? I'd rather not have to do it manually with a hacksaw with blue blade!
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No point in attaching a pic as it doesn't get to a text only group. You'll need to host it somewhere and give a link to that pic.
Fences ain't generally cast iron so won't shatter. They're usually wrought iron and you'll need to cut that with a saw.
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Dave Plowman snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk London SW
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Sorry I forgot to put the links to the photos in my original message - here they are:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/lapp6fzgpneb08f/2017-07-14%2016.51.20.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/wqz0jzeja5d9rhj/2017-07-14%2016.50.58.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/eizlh25mr9f1hjt/2017-07-14%2016.50.48.jpg?dl=0
I'm fairly sure the bits of metal left from previous railings are cast iron, the house was built in about 1890
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Murmansk wrote:

Wasn't it traditional to fix the original iron fences with lead melted into the stone sockets? GBFO blowlamp and a large pair of mole grips?
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On Saturday, 15 July 2017 06:53:53 UTC+1, Andy Burns wrote:

Doesn't work. the heat is conducted away too quickly. All you can do is cut them off flush with an angle grinder. It will be a long job.
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On Sat, 15 Jul 2017 06:53:48 +0100, Andy Burns wrote:

It was - and the moern equivalent is to do something similar with resin.

Sadly won't work as the lead will have been poured in a molten state rather than melted in (actually you probably meant that anyway?) and the amount of heat required to return it to a molten state all the way down will be incredible as it will dissipate quickly. The risk is that the stone will crack and be ruined. Blowlamps of whatever size will only touch the surface giving at best at thi liquid layer which will be dangerous to remove anyway.
Angle grinder is probably the only way to shift the stubs effectively.
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Round here most wrought iron fences were removed from parks and private properties during WW2 to help the war effort. There are plenty of examples where the fences were extracted from their sockets rather than simply ground off.
Richard
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Hi despite this being in a site called Google Groups, it is in fact a text only Usenet group. Any attempt to attach a picture will be ignored as its format is text, not binary. The best way to do it is to use a google drive public link or a link to a dropbox public file. Brian
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On Fri, 14 Jul 2017 09:40:36 -0700 (PDT), Murmansk

Stitch-drill into the lead around any obstructing cast iron bit, then judicious sideways bashing with a club hammer to loosen it, before extracting it like a tooth?
The original fence was probably a Victorian cast iron thing, sacrificed during the WW2 drive for scrap metal, much of which was never used AAIU.
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On 7/15/2017 10:08 AM, Chris Hogg wrote:

The middle picture looks to me more like a cementatious filler than lead (although it might have been added later on top of the lead).
I still think I would start with an angle grinder. With that geometry, it won't be that easy to remove lead by drilling (assuming it is lead).
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On 7/14/2017 5:40 PM, Murmansk wrote:

Having now see the photos, the obvious tool to use would be an angle grinder. It would take forever with a multi tool although a hacksaw might be quicker. I certainly would not attack them with a hammer, you are more likely to crack the stone.
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