Finishing Oak.

[Tim Lamb]

I know my place!

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[Nick Odell]

I will check but I suspect the answer, for this cheapo model is "no." I never use its camera because the only way to get the pictures out is to bluetooth them over to the PC and even though the earphone and power both use the same micro-usb nothing else gets recognised when I connect it to a PC.

Thanks for the suggestion though: I will follow it up.

Nick

[John Rumm]

What model of phone is it?

[Fredxx]

It is an oil that a lot of professionals use. I know someone who swears by the stuff,

I thought it was associated with news laws regarding privacy and how liability from fraud has switched to banks and suppliers.

I think you have no choice but to accept their demand, or pass the buck as suggested! :-)

[Nick Odell]

It's branded Vodafone 340 and it really is a basic featurephone.

Nick

[Tim Lamb]

Perhaps someone could explain what is meant by *lint free cloth*. I had in mind surreptitiously acquiring a handy teacloth:-)

Actually Howdens have an offer on 1l door oil from Osmo so I plan to try that. Raw is said to contain a whitener to offset the darkening effect of the satin version. Slow drying, which is inconvenient for stairs!

I have tried various login routes and failed to get anywhere. Perhaps Amazon consider this a success. I may try their help line tomorrow.

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[John Rumm]

Something that does not shed fibres into your nice finish while applying it!

[Roger Hayter]

Microfibre or fine linen (chamois substitute) cloths are practical solutions.

[Tim Lamb]

Indeed. Current thinking is a cast off bed sheet. Progress so far has been to re-establish the boss's TV viewing area while I wait for the plaster repairs to set hard.

[The Natural Philosopher]

I use kitchen roll to apply oils. Or a dry sponge

[John Rumm]

I find either one of the thin dense foam "sponges" designed for kitchen wiping up, or the foam finish brushes work well for oil finishes.

[Thomas Prufer]

Please take the warnings about self-ignition of oil-soaked rags seriously. All drying oils will oxidize and release heat. Combining flammable solvents, wood shavings, wood scrapings, sawdust, in a bucket or box is Not A Good Idea; this combination may catch fire many hours later.

Burn the rags, or soak in water and seal, or place in airtight container, or spread out to dry in a safe place.

Thomas Prufer

[Tim Lamb]

In message [e-mail], Thomas Prufer [e-mail]> writes

Good timing. I'm hoping to start oiling tomorrow. I have had self ignition before but from car body sealant/glass fibre work.

[The Natural Philosopher]

Tim: How I apply oil is this.

A small pad of kitchen roll with a little oil applied and then rubbed in to the wood.

No drips, no spillage. no need for anything beyond masking tape

[Martin Brown]

It does give a very nice finish and it relatively easy to work with.

Be careful how you dispose of the scrunched up used rags wet with oil. The warning that they may spontaneously catch fire after a while is not an idle threat. Though you do need a fair number of them.

[Tim Lamb]

OK. My previous experience is limited to winter coating stored outdoor furniture where drips/overcoating not an issue.

The manufacturers recommendation is to use a natural hair brush and then wipe off any visible excess after a couple of hours.

I'm still at the preparation stage as matching the paint for the plaster repairs is not as easy as reading the labels on the tins left over by the decorators might be imagined:-(

[Tim Lamb]

In message <M$ [e-mail]>, Tim Lamb [e-mail]> writes

snip

Ri-ight! The job is more or less done. Glass to put back and some cleaning to do.

Lessons learned... wiping off the excess is an absolute essential and even more essential with the second coat. Luckily I have a stock of disposable rubber gloves left over from the glass fibre roofing job.

Planning. Stairs by their nature and purpose present problems not found with finishing furniture that you can walk around.

Lighting. Quite a problem in a smallish hall and vital to ensure a full coating. I used a 250 Watt halogen plus the domestic stuff and still found hard to see corners. Some sort of diffuse headlamp might have helped.

Raw door oil. The job is done and looks OK. Without a comparison, it is difficult to say this is the best product for the job. I wanted to avoid darkening the Oak and chose this because it has a small amount of white pigment to offset the normal darkening effect of drying oil.

I will try to put up a photo in due course. Meanwhile a totally unsolicited compliment to Stairbox who kept exactly to their delivery promises, were cheaper than two competitors and impressed my carpenters!

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