Filling in plasterboard hole

Will shortly have 6 inch diameter holes to fill in on ceiling when I remove halogen light fittings. I will have access above and below.
My plan is `glue` a piece of plasterboard in the void to cover the hole and then a 6 inch piece to flush it with the ceiling from below. My question is...
Do I then just use a filler to fill any gaps or should I be doing something else, I ask because I dont want cracks appearing later on.
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On 28/10/16 11:57, ss wrote:

Filler is OK. Actually I recommend making the patch a bit thinner and skimming the whole lot with a finishing plaster, It was skimmed before it should be below the finished surface anyway, so full depth plasterboard can be used.
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Use drywall filler, if you make a hash of it it sands down very easy.
Richard
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On 28/10/16 12:27, Tricky Dicky wrote:

so does plaster.
Done a lot of plaster sanding in my time. I cant plaster to save my life.
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On Friday, 28 October 2016 11:57:37 UTC+1, ss wrote:

Cover the joint with scrim to be absolutely certain. Available any builders merchant. It's good to feather the edge of the old plaster too.
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On 28/10/2016 16:34, harry wrote:

Scrim will require the patch to be finished proud of the surrounding area.
If the plasterboard in-fill is left with a slight gap (1mm or so) all around there's plenty of meat for the filler/plaster to bite onto.
I fix the in-fill board to a batten that spans the hole by a good few inches then a screw a few inches either side of the hole up through the original ceiling to pull the batten down.
Shouldn't flex if done like this so virtually no chance of the patch cracking.
:)
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On 28/10/2016 11:57, ss wrote:

I would glue a couple of strips of wood (rather than plasterboard) across the hole from above, and then screw the patch to that. Then, as someone else has suggested, fill the gap - and cover the screwheads - with drywall filler.
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On 28/10/2016 11:57, ss wrote:

Wickes fine surface filler is brilliant. It sets quite hard, much better than polyfiller or similar rubbish, but it can still be sanded down if necessary.
As long as you mechanically connect the in-fill patch to the existing ceiling somehow, like gluing another section to connect both, then you wont need to use scrim to strengthen the joint.
Personally I would use a piece of OSB to bridge the hole and glue and screw it to the original celing then glue and screw the infill patch to the exposed OSB.
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On 28/10/2016 18:23, Andrew wrote:

Thanks all for the replies, pretty much along the lines I was thinking. So not far off the mark.
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