Fancy a screw?

[The Medway Handyman]

I've found that if the pieces don't pull together, backing out the Turbogold & screwing it in again works a treat.

[Frank Erskine]

A lot of those little packets of screws you used to get from hardware shops in the 70s were like that, and usually marked as "brassed" screws.

[The Medway Handyman]

I think it might have been you who put me on to Multi Monti's in the first place. Incredible fixings.

[meow2222]

Theres still a lot of 'brassed' stuff about. Its cheap, but rusts quickly, even indoors.

NT

[dom]

It's probably worth mentioning for newcomers that you need to be tooled up - sds drill, correct diameter bit (no substitutions) and ideally an impact driver to place them - to gain the full benefits of speed and ease of use.

[Tim Lamb]

In message , The Medway Handyman writes

Don't try that with stainless....... they break!

regards

[Rod]

Something very funny going on. At least two of you have said something about stainless (at least Turbo Ultra) breaking/failing.

I don't think a single one I have used has been a problem - except a couple of graunched heads which were probably entirely my fault. (I had more problem with slotted s/s screws I bought which had lousily formed slots and a few did break.) Maybe it is certain sizes? Or luck of the draw? I have used both mini Mak impact driver and main drill to screw them, and have certainly done them up very tightly. (Goodbye head as it disappears... :-) )

[dennis]

I have snapped the head off some 6 x 100 in the past.

They also bend.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

I bought a very expensive front door night latch - rare in that if conformed to the BS for mortice locks. Made by Yale. And the outside part very soon lost its brass finish showing some form of cast light coloured metal underneath - probably muckite. Just with normal use - no polishing.

[Tim Lamb]

In message , Rod writes

They do. 6.0x100 in Oak framing. Even with a pilot hole.

OK forward but they don't do backwards.

regards

[dom]

I bought a trade case of turboultra on an introductory offer. I now use the small ones for trims (for which they're great), and the rest for temporary work where broken fasteners in timber don't matter (as it's all destined for the woodburner).

[stuart noble]

Known as EB I think. Electro brassed

[Tim S]

Just to follow up, being a coward I've ordered a selection of mixed packs

Quicksilver twinthreads Goldscrew Plus (Wasn't mentioned by anyone IIRC but they were on a clearance deal) Brass countersunks (for things on show like hinges and cupboard latches) Black quicksilver roundheads (cheap deal, good for backboxes and random jobs)

At least I won't be short for a while, and when I find what I like I'll replenish those. Hell of a lot more than I would have got for the money in B&Q buying as I needed :)

Cheers

Tim

[AJH]

Which are the most useful sizes?

I've just come away from helping set up a temporary kitchen. I was delegated the task of making a frame and 4 legs to carry a ss sink.

I decided to just pin joint a frame of 2 by 2s with screws. Now these were just standard gold coloured screws from a shed, not quite like the screws I remember but they did drive with no clearance/pilot hole but then not unexpectedly didn't pull the joints tight.

I've used some other, black screws recently that might be the screwtite type, a thinner shank with screw flights considerable wider and a bugle head rather than simple countersink. As long as the unthreaded part is the same length as the batten being screwed these will pull tight.

Given that you probably only need 30mm of screw in the anchor part is it possible to buy screws like this but with only 30mm of thread and then various shank lengths?

I'll need to address this when I next visit unless the sink has already collapsed.

AJH

[John]

With no clearance hole I cannot see how a screw can pull two pieces together. Imagine if you created a deliberate space and then drove a screw through and tightened it - then the thread would be good in both pieces and they would not pull together. Your idea of a long plain section is a sound idea but in the meantime I think a clearance hole is the answer.

[andrew]

Which is exactly what happens.

I know that's the proper way to do it with convebntional screws but these newer screws seem to have wider flights, which would lead to a wider clearance hole which would then not support the narrower shank.

Anyway I was just asking, I'd probably have been better off tosh nailing.

AJH

[John Rumm]

You can do it by brute force - just keep driving so that you strip the thread created in the top bit of wood - then they will pull together. Much depends on the actual wood though. You may find that you end up just countersinking the screw head right through the top bit.

[jsabine]

Or, slightly more subtly, drive the screw through the top piece into the lower, then back it out of the lower one, pull the two bits tight together, and drive again. More of a faff to describe than to do (at least with a power driver) and tight enough for most purposes.