Extend cable inside kitchen ceiling

We have a fault in the cabling for one of our kitchen ceiling lights. The lamp I have just removed was running rather warm, and it's cooked the end of the cable.

I can't replace the cable without taking up carpets and loads of floorboards upstairs. And I've pulling on the cable, but it won't budge, so there's no hope of pulling a new one through.

My plan is to trace the cable back 30 cms to a sound bit of cable, make a hole in the ceiling, and extend the cable from there to the lamp. The idea is to put the replacement light in the same position as the old one.

So, some questions:

Are there any connectors I can use that are allowed within the regulations?

Are there any connectors I can use that are safe, even though not allowed within the regulations? ;)

I'd prefer a small connector, so I don't have to make a whopping hole in the ceiling. Any suggestions, please?

Reply to
GB
Loading thread data ...

Crimp or solder and heatshrink

If you can solder do that. Finished result wont be much bigger than the cable you pulled out to extend - soon tuck back...

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

Is selectively removing plasterboard ceiling more work to reinstate then ripping up flooring ?.

There are nifty attachments for a router that cuts a circular hole, and a special repair ring allows the round section removed to slot right back in with no need for faffing with noggins etc, if you decide to go through the floor.

even carefully removing square holes of flooring (drill pilot hole and use jigsaw cutter), can be quite easy to make a solid repair.

Reply to
Andrew

Can you persuade yourself/others of the need for another light fitting on the same circuit and then daisy chain from that?

If not (a) crimp connectors or (b) if you don't have/want to buy a crimper, Wago connectors - in a box if you want to be a good boy:

formatting link

Reply to
Robin

Sadly, no. It would look all wrong. Is that the only way to stay within the regs?

I'm quite happy to shell out a couple of pounds on a Wago box. I thought it would be harder.

Reply to
GB

I'd also say Wago connectors are quicker and easier than crimps, especially working overhead on a ladder. And unless you do a lot of crimping, likely to be more reliable too.

Or, this sort of thing which includes the box

formatting link
(several types available from various sources)

What I have never tried is the solder ring in heat shrink type connector. These look very good in video ads but I'm a bit skeptical.

Reply to
newshound

Wago?

formatting link

Reply to
alan_m

Plus the Wago connectors :) I've been in Toolstation when people who only look at the pictures marched in to complain about that.

And I think the 2-pole 773 series will fit if you've some of those - with the 2 cables into the same end of the box. But it's a while since I used one so I may be due for a right bollocking when my homework's marked.

Reply to
Robin

Big Clive has done a teardown. IIRC the verdict was sort of work. The bigger question is are they mains rated...

formatting link

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

Obviously though, you need to sleeve each wire and the whole lot in heat shrink for the safety of the next person who comes along after you!

This from a person who has just remembered the chock block he pushed behind the convection heater blocking up the chimney in the living room. Ahem, well it was a good idea for a temp way to run four filament strip lights at half brightness cos I got fed up with them blowing. Brian

Reply to
Brian Gaff (Sofa

formatting link

Reply to
ARW

That's smart. And because it's nil maintenance it's actually completely legal (within the regs) to hide it in the ceiling?

Reply to
GB

Interesting, though easy enough to put an extra bit of "rated" sleeving or heat shrink over them.

Reply to
newshound

Yes.

Reply to
ARW

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.