EV charging

Jan 31, 2026 Last reply: 4 months ago 131 Replies

For a 1930s non-sleeved 15A plug, 7.06mm diameter L/N pins, 18.62mm long (minus 1.98mm radiused nose)

Assume maximal contact along the outer cylinder of the pin

2 x pi x 7.06 x 16.64 = 234.9 mm^2

Is is better or worse than that for a 13 amp plug/socket?

For a 13A plug, the maximum dimensions of the non-sleeved portion of the L/N pins is

6.48mm wide 4.05mm thick 9.2mm long

There is an allowed 1.85mm chamfer at the tip, assume this reduces contact length to 7.35mm, also assume full contact on all four edges for the non-sleeved length

so maximal surface area per pin = 2 x 7.35 x (4.05 + 6.48) = 154.8 mm^2

It's all bollocks. The 13A ring main is very carefully specified and is very safe.

It has far fewer problems than any other system

It is rather dependent on how they are made. In theory there is slightly more surface area but if the sockets are just curve brass sheet its crap,.

13A plugs with flat blades and flat spring contacts in practice are extremely good

"Assume maximal contact along the outer cylinder" That is the point I was wondering about.

The (round) pins have to be less than an interference fit into its socket, or you would never manage to plug or unplug it.

Hence assuming the pin is 7.06mm in diameter, the socket into which it fits must be larger than that. The actual surface area of contact is then difficult to quantify. On a 13 amp plug, there is a wiping contact which is pressed against the sides of the pin. I don't believe it covers the full surface area of the (non-sleeved) pin

I think this is really the point. UK chose square (rectangular) pins for a reason... It is extremely hard to get a round socket to work reliably after a hundred pluggings..but a spring leaf contact works pretty well.

Unless they've been deformed by the nylon 'safety' plugs.

Well, in the 1940s when they were designing these things, what loads did they have that needed to take power continuously? Even electric fires would have had a bimetallic thermostat. The one thing that was a continuous load, the hot water cylinder, was hardwired.

Perhaps with 80 years of hindsight they could have chosen differently. But 13A plugs were fine for most of those 80 years.

Theo

Um, only fan heaters. We never had a radiant heater with a stat of any kind. You just selected 1, 2 or 3 bars.

Seen immersion heaters connected to a three (square) pin plug. Obviously not a good idea but it did happen.

Tim

I found this about 13A plugs and sockets: "Key details regarding the contact area: Plug Pins: The live and neutral pins are 6.35mm wide, 4mm thick, and

18mm long (visible length), usually with insulated sleeves. Contact Mechanism: The socket typically uses a "socket-outlet and plug" arrangement, often with spring-loaded, stamped metal clips that grip the top and bottom of the flat pin. Actual Contact: Due to irregularities and the nature of the gripping, the true electrical contact area is very small, which is why excessive, prolonged current (13A) can lead to overheating if the contact force weakens. Key Takeaway: The design relies on high contact pressure over a tiny area rather than a large, flat surface area to conduct up to 13 amps safely."

I can't find the equivalent information for 15A round-pin plugs. But the live and neutral pins are about 7mm in diameter and mate with close-fitting cylindrical sockets over a length of (I estimate) 10mm. This gives a potential contact area of around 200 mm^2 per pin.

But they're not. The cylindrical sockets have two longitudinal cuts along part of their length, with the strip between them pushed in a bit

- effectively making the pin an interference fit in the socket.

BS 546, it was updated last year and does now include sleeved pins.

The contact area is nothing like that, which is why these things get to an elevated temperature.

Even the materials they are made of, can be an issue. The metal selected for the job. Typically, you need different characteristics, that might be satisfied by plating up a base metal. Something has to maintain the K constant of the spring that helps make the contact reliable. Then you need metals that are particularly conductive.

You can look at the evolution a bit here, and see how shaped female bits attempt to provide a reliable contact over a relatively small area. Like 11 and 13.

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If the contact resistance was 10 mohms, you can take I^2*R and work out what the power is that will be dissipated. Now we're up to the watts level, and that's not good. Part of what is not good, is the lack of ways for the heat to escape.

Paul

I've an old fan heater fitted with a 13a plug (and fuse) of a vintage that didn't have sleeved pins. it also uses 2.5mm cable and doesn't run noticably warmer than ambient at 3KW. I've found more modern plugs always run hot at

13a loading.

In my testing of plugs and sockets for a home-made extension cable for temporary EV charging I found the best 13A plug to be an old MK, the type with the terminals where you wrap the cable around a threaded post and clamp down with a nut with captive washer.

nib

The cable clamps on many modern 13A plugs struggle with 3-core 18 awg cable (i.e sub 1mm^2) let alone 2.5mm^2.

Yep, these?

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They ain't 'arf pricy though! Once had a "discussion" in B&Q when I picked up a couple of those. "Wy are you buying them, these [flimsy Chinese Export] ones are only 99p?"...

do note that MK are now made in China!

I bought a 13A plug and trailing socket, both described on CEF website as "Rubber"

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which both turned out to be hard thermoplastic, no better than what was on offer in B&Q :-(

There is nothing wrong with Chinese manufacturing *IF IT'S DONE TO SPEC*.

I buy a LOT of s*it from china.

Some of it is total crap, but mostly it isn't

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