Epoxy Resin Mortar

On Sat, 22 Jul 2006 16:10:44 +0100, Andy Hall had this to say:

More than likely a decent BM will stock it.

b and q, screwfix, etc.

screwfix, toolstation, thetoolbag etc. I've got to do the same and plan to use building adhesive (no mo nails etc) and sand. Thatll be covered before seeing feet though.

NT

You can get it in B&Qs (big ones anyway), next to the FAB, cement dye, and stuff. I've only used it once, for repairing some cracks in a Victorian window lintel. Horrible sticky stuff that earns the reputation that epoxy tile grout doesn't deserve in terms of difficulty of application, or rather smoothing off once applied. If you have any other option, I'd use it, although it sure seemed tough an hour or two later, and no sign of any re-emergent cracks are visible - so it seems effective. Unless this is going to have to have heavy loads, I'd go for a self-levelling compound instead.

On Sat, 22 Jul 2006 22:23:01 +0100, Bolted wrote (in article ):

Thanks for that, I'll look for some. The area is going to have heavy loads, so I do need something substantial.

Andy Hall wrote: > Thanks for that, I'll look for some. The area is going to have heavy

Fair enough - use just one trowel in the whole process if you can, i.e. use a stick or something disposable for mixing it, and mix it in something which is disposable. You'll have fun cleaning the trowel later - I wiped off as much as possible, and then let it set and sanded it off - it was persistent stuff. I'd used a bucket trowel for mixing and a couple for applying, which was a bad move. Might be cleverer to find out what the right solvent is, of course.

On Sat, 22 Jul 2006 22:45:22 +0100, Bolted wrote (in article ):

OK. I'll probably just buy a cheap trowel and bin it or relegate it for gardening etc.

I might have made it sound worse than it is, as in it took me about

It goes off fast in my experience (like epoxy wood filler), as in a 5-10 min workability timeframe. Mix little and often, otherwise you end up with expensive tough lumps in your bucket.

I'd also say start with deep small holes first, just because the worst part of it is its sticky-gluey-ness, which means it isn't easy to get smooth or to feather (although when you get it there eventually, it does feather quite well).

On Sat, 22 Jul 2006 23:34:14 +0100, Bolted wrote (in article ):

That would suit me well.

Is this the stuff?

Andy Hall wrote: > Is this the stuff?

Dunno, it came in a plastic bucket just like that, but I can't remember the brand.

Kind of medium grey, I think. It was painted the next day and this was about 3 years ago), but after the 24hrs it was given it was about the colour of freshly set concrete the same age. I don't think it would fade/lighten in quite the same way as concrete, given the different chemical mechanisms in play - but it was painted over well before I could tell for sure.

cant you put a bit of polythene on it and just press it flat?

NT

snipped-for-privacy@care2.com wrote: > cant you put a bit of polythene on it and just press it flat?

I don't know. I didn't think to try. Depends how accurately you can estimate how much to put underneath it, I suppose. Well worth a go, as it would be easy to sand it off after.

Have you looked at

OK...

Good thought, thanks

Have now. Concrex. Seems like the stuff. I am not sure that I will need as much as 10kg, but that's OK. Thanks...

Don't be silly. All you need do is paint some pva where the cement needs patching and mix some pva with a strong grout. If it is just a few millimeters use neat cement. Any thicker, use a little fine sand

-just enough to slow the drying and prevent cracking.

Does anyone know how well a neat mix of cement and lime would behave? I imagine the lime would act as an expander the way sand does. But is it likely to speed up the setting by adding heat to the process?

That technique has already been tried.

It doesn't work in the application that I have.

Thats the stuff to use, (Concrex). Although It will feather edge ok, best to go round the edge of repair with an angle grinder or even a chisel and cut the edge out to a depth of 5mm or so.

After mixing do make sure you turn the material out into a wide mouthed container or the 'exothermic' heat, (heat generated by the chemical reaction) will set the material off very quickly and will smoke with very toxic fumes.