Electrical switch issue

[rick]

In the kitchen I have an MK Grid Switch this has a nice neatly labelled switch for each of kitchen fixed appliances.

The Oven (not hob) is a 20A DP switch and is fed from a dedicated 20A radial cct on 4mm2 cable Grid switch feeds to an MK5045 cooker wiring point

Oven is being replaced with a Neff U1ACE2HN0B and information is that it is rated at 5.9kw ..... which to me says 26A

I can't find a Grid switch higher than 20A ..... I know I could increase breaker to 32A ... but would then need higher capacity grid switch

Anybody any suggestions ?

So far only thought is I would need to put a link in bypassing the GRID switch (and fit a blanking plate) and put a DP cooker switch instead of MK5045 connection point. Unless anyone else has a better idea.

If my idea is the option what in neatest way to 'bridge' the 4mm t&e ... use WAGO lever connectors ...

are good for 32A or WAGO push connectors rated at 40A Anybody experience of using these ? which is easiest to use ... or is there a better way

Connection will be within confines of the 'back box' so all still protected.

[rick]

The 2nd product code link should have been:

Not used either so unsure which is easiest to use.

[John Rumm]

I suppose you could use the existing grid switch to switch a contactor or relay, and have that switch the oven.

For applications like this, the non lever type are quick and easy.

[tabbypurr]

apply diversity

NT

[dennis]

How does diversity help with a switch, can you be sure its not going to switch the 26A and weld the contacts?

Its not like heating of cables which is averaged over time its an instantaneous event.

[John Rumm]

Not only that, for a fixed appliance like an oven, double pole switching capable of proper (i.e. >= 3mm contact gap) isolation would be appropriate.

[ARW]

I would be surprised if a 20A DP grid switch did not have 3mm separation.

[John Rumm]

I was assuming it was SP, but that is possibly an assumption too far.

(still don't fancy a ~6kW load on it though!)