Electric meter advise

Hi people looking for some advise here, I have a garage/ workshop/office at the rear of a shop the power was cut when the shop was refitted a couple of years ago apparantly. i have found the meters and mine is missing, how much approximatly will this cost to have replaced?, also to get from the meter to my CU is a gap of about 60ft that the only route i can see is above the shops suspended ceiling to the rear into my yard area then into my unit, the old cable was run through a scaffolding tube out here .. The cable from my CU to the meter can i run this myself? and what type of cable do i need to use?.. any info really grateful

Reply to
th007z0747
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Hi people looking for some advise here, I have a garage/ workshop/office at the rear of a shop the power was cut when the shop was refitted a couple of years ago apparantly. i have found the meters and mine is missing, how much approximatly will this cost to have replaced?, also to get from the meter to my CU is a gap of about 60ft that the only route i can see is above the shops suspended ceiling to the rear into my yard area then into my unit, the old cable was run through a scaffolding tube out here .. The cable from my CU to the meter can i run this myself? and what type of cable do i need to use?.. any info really grateful

Reply to
th007z0747

Ideally you should only have one point of supply to a premises if you can move freely between them - was that why the "old" supply was disconnected ?

Other than that, if the garage / workshop / office is not interconnected to the shop in any way (alarm, wiring etc) and the cutout is still live, a meter is normally fitted free as long as you have an MPAN for that point of supply (see below)...

One issue you might have is whether the "old" supply had an MPAN (meter point administration number) which was transferred to the new one to the shop (if that's what happened) - in which case, you're at the mercy of whoever you want the supplier to be, as you need to find someone there willing to create a new MPAN number for a supply they know nothing about (i.e. capacity, load profile)

If you pay the bill for the entire site, and the MPAN number for the shop says it has a three phase supply and you only happen to be using two of the phases, it should be a simple case of getting your supplier to arrange for whoever their meter operator is to fit the missing meter.

I've been out of the game from a practical point of view for some time, but for that length of run (afaik) you're looking to need a switched fused isolator near the meter, as you're running a submain to the remote end - you'll probably end up doing that in steel wire armoured at a guess.

Reply to
Colin Wilson

The shop is seperated from the workshop by a six foot wall

The 100a fuse is there for the workshop but meter was removed when shop refitted, as workshop had collapsed roof at time

As far as i know the shop just had a meter upgrade from dial type to digital.

Reply to
th007z0747

In that case, contact the local network operator (not your supplier, unless its the same) i.e. UU / Scottish Power / EDF etc. and ask for the number of their MPAS service - then call them and ask them if they can give you the MPAN number of the former workshop supply.

They should be able to search via the postcode, and can *hopefully* sort you out - you then need to go to whoever you want the supplier to be, and ask for the meter to be reinstated.

Also, check in the vicinity of the main fuse - there may be a card / sticker with the readings and serial number of the old meter. That's always a good fall-back as they should be able to backtrace the MPAN number that way (you may already have this info if you have some of the old bills available - in which case you may also have the MPAN number on the bill !) - the MPAN number is 13 digits long, and may be shown in a boxed area as the second line (typically) - sometimes split across different "cells"

Reply to
Colin Wilson

I will try and source the MPAN number , Thanks for the advice

As for the cable going from the now going to be installed isolator from the meter, what sort of thickness is this going to have to be, so i can get an idea of what it is going to cost me.

Reply to
th007z0747

Without knowing your load requirements its hard to take a guess... it all depends on the type of equipment, and things like welders and any large motors that start direct-on-line may make a difference to what you need.

Reply to
Colin Wilson

Sorry yes load... just small equipment, 140amp ish mig , now an then. disc cutters now an then, 600w spindle for hour or 2 at a time couple times week, standard lights, elec shower, KETTLE very regular, NO elec heating, Same equipment i had at my garage at rear of my house and that ran on SVA 2.5mm galv wire sheethed with a 32amcb in house and only tripped once in garage on secondry CU when i knocked battery charger into butt of water

Reply to
ganja

Sorry yes load... just small equipment, 140amp ish mig , now an then. disc cutters now an then, 600w spindle for hour or 2 at a time couple times week, standard lights, elec shower, KETTLE very regular, NO elec heating, Same equipment i had at my garage at rear of my house and that ran on SVA 2.5mm galv wire sheethed with a 32amcb in house and only tripped once in garage on secondry CU when i knocked battery charger into butt of water

Reply to
ganja

Any indication what the initial current draw is for the welding kit ?

You may also find that this can impact on your incoming service, so depending on what it pulls and the frequency of use, you may, theoretically, need a bigger mains supply putting in from the street (there are regs regarding motors and welding kit).

Reply to
Colin Wilson

its a diy welder not pro, but is 18-34a open circuit, runs on a 13a standard 3 pin plug, variable 25-130a settings, no idea what the initial draw is but never once blew my extension lead with a 30ua trip plug built onto it, and motor on spindle is standard bench grinder

Reply to
ganja

but is 18-34a open circuit, runs on a 13a

Have now been advised by friendly local spark to run 16mm T & E and

6mm Earth, with a 100a breaker at meter end, and im also going to put a 100a breaker before my CU so i can isolate it without gaining access to the shop, Never know when i might wanna add a ring or shower or summat,
Reply to
ganja

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