I have just stripped some floorboards, doors and furniture and quite a few
old woodworm holes and dents need to be filled.
What is the most economical way to buy a 'natural pine' coloured wood
filler, and where can I get it from.
The 250mg pot of Cuprinol High Performance Wood Filler (natural) is
excellent, but much too expensive at around £6.00 a tin for all this work.
Thanks in advance,
Maybe it's a combination of soaking in and drying that's shrinking it ?
How about fibreglass resin and hardener as a binder ?
Not too much hardener, lest it self combusts ;)
Car body filler is also low shrinkage, but would look awful as a wood
I really, really would not do this - the PVA is hard to finish
well, and won't take stain, and can get on surrounding timber
causing similar problems. The Cuprinol stuff is OK ( as meow
says use a shade darker than the timber) - can you "cut" it
with wood dust, or use shellac and sawdust?
I wouldn't try to fill dents - they're going to look worse filled than
just left. You could try steaming them to reduce their depth. I
wouldn't bother trying to invisibly repair flight holes either - using
something a bit darker than the wood will stand out less than something
a bit lighter. If you don't want old wood to look like old wood you
could always paint it.
Either paint the door, or throw the pine away and get something decent.
Pine is complete crap, its not even as good as MDF. Its usally lousy
with knots, lousy with resin, moves further from its initial position
than a labour politician seeking re-election and about as strong as
With about 200 quids worth of labour, and materials, its possible to
make a pine door look decent by painting it.
I can buy a solid oak door that looks good for 160 quid with just a lick
of varnish or oil..
Did the OP ask for your opinion on the quality of his pine? Well, shut
the fu then.
IMO Brummer Stopper is the best filler for old pine. Just remember to
match the colour with the finished colour of the boards, not the sanded
Liberon wax sticks are okay but lots of small holes would take forever.
Did I ask you to present an opinion on my opinion? Did the OP ask my
persmission to pollute the NG with silly requests about how to make a
cheap silk purse out of an expensive sows ear?
Take your own medicine.
Agreed..but no pine is as good as even Oak really..which ain't the most
stable of timbers..
Iroko is way better than pine..and looks quite decent...
Lets think about costs foir a second.
I have some solid oak doors - country ledge and brace style. They are
about 6 foot by 3 ft by an inch..say in total 1.5 cu ft of oak, which
wholseales at 20 quid a cubic ft. So £30 of material - say £40 to allow
Now my piit is that the average solid wood door - even a pine one - is
over 80 quid...maybe 100 - these were I think 130 quid...for an extra 30
quid you can get a really decent door that doesn't NEED all this
How many hours of buggering about is it worth to save 30 quid...?
Pine is the one wood where I would recommend against doing this. Filled
pine nearly always looks bad, leave the holes and it looks like old
wood, which is far from perfect but a lot better than filled.
Why? Pine changes colour so much that a consistent match with filler
is, if not technically impossible, impractical. You always get filler
stain marks where it was wiped flat, looked perfect at the time, but as
tints change it shows up looking like sht.
Just dont do it. I've seen both approaches, and would live with the
holes any day.
Dents can be steamed to raise them, but with pine, old wood is old
wood, and always will be.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.