What are your thought's on these:
If anything, I do hope there are better than standard CFL's.
There just lower wattage GU10s, why do you want to compare them with CFLs?
I see a trend here. I knew there was something I saw in Wicks that I meant to
This is reminiscent of that Gameshow Bullseye. "This is what you would have won".
Why not just tell us what is in the box without the eco-bollocks
Well, it appears to be claiming the same light ourput as 50W for a 35W
bulb. I've seen other manufacturers as well with this sort of thing.
Don't know how accurate are this claims, you won't get the savings of a
CFL, but you'll get proper halogen light from them.
Horrendous over marketing?
Straight rip off?
35W is a standard GU10 size , no mention of IR envelope or similar
that would expect with addition of the `energy saving` tag.
No figures to back up the `equivalence`
Yup a 35W lamp will save you energy, because it produces LESS LIGHT
than a 50W one ,pretty simple, if you can cope with less light fine.
LV MR16 is price comparable and will save you money through increased
efiiciency without getting conned into awful CFL retrofits
There is scope here for a manufacturer to produce a mains halogen that
in reality is a 12V bulb and small SMPSU all bundled into the normal
bulb form factor. That would get the better efficiency of the lower
voltage bulb and hence more lumens per watt.
Lighting Equipment News did one with Swansea Uni in late nineties, ran
a competition for innovative lamp designs, underwhelmed by entries,
did their own, GLS format , smpsu in base 12V capsule lamp, think old
bug bear of base up burning, cooking electronics was main problem,
though the silicon is a lot more integrated now, heat may still be a
Yup, I thought about the heat problem after I posted that...
I wonder if you get any mileage with something really simple like a
diode to half wave rectify the mains, and then tweaking the filament
design to take advantage of the lower effective voltage. Might gain some
efficiency with fairly bulletproof "electronics"...
Flicker at 50hz becomes really noticeable, at 60 hz more of a chance.
ETC make theatre dimmer doublers for US market on 120V where each half
of cycle is controlled seperately , diode splitter drives 2 seperate
77V lamps but they are 575W with big thermal inertia and at 60Hz.
I don't know what the ones mentioned above are. Some figures, all from
- Hi-Spot ES50 230-240V 50W WFL 50deg 500cd 2700K
- HI-Spot ES50 40deg 35W 230V Superia ECO 500cd 2750K
So, 10 degrees narrower, 50K bluer.
So not the same, but how unacceptably off?
Not convinced about having 12 transformers on the ceiling, mixing with
the insulation, but certainly sold from a different application on the
Also, hoping for the LEDs to come into the rescue. :-)
The problem with the LEDs I have seen so far, is that in order to get a
broad spectrum output from them, they seem to use the LED to excite a
phosphor coating on the LED - which makes them "LED Fluorescent" rather
than pure LED. So while you get rid of some of the CFL limitations, you
are still stuck with the poor colour spectrum.
The 10 degrees narrower then quoting output in candela is a cheat,
million candlepower torch?
50K cooler not hugely noticeable , the narrower bean might be , same
intensity in smaller spot.
Only way is to try a couple in your application.
Trafos should be 85%+ efficient, aluminised rather than dichro LV MR16
are easier to get now which makes a replacement for GU10 a reasonable
choice. Save the cost in few months, in lamp replacement alone.
I think we have spoken about this in the past. I have 14 but don't
replace more than one a year (maybe because they are on a dimmer and all
but 4 @ 20W don't get used much ). I am also worried about the fire hazard.
I am actually pondering about it, at least for the four 20W that I use
every day. My dimmer won't be happy with 4x5w = 20w, but maybe there is
a way. The colour mix with the other 8 GU10s on the same ceiling will be
tricky as well. :-)
Personal experinece is that dimmomg and soft starting prolongs lamp
What do you perceive is a fire hazard?
GU10 mean already have holes, GU10 may be aluminised rather than
dichroic but they are hot running lamps with much lower efficiency.
LV aluminsed are now easy to find if its a low void space, trafos are
thermally protected and will tell you if they are unhappy by flashing
Triac dimmable drivers solves that , but probably 9W, 3*3W lamp with
big heatsink at back to get a warm white and decent brightness its not
a cheap solution and unless its commercial where an installation has a
finite tax deductable lifetime not one that will payback cost of
Replacing dozen GU10s for decent LV with decent trafos, Mode, decent
lamps , probably not Sylvania, will cost a lot less and have a
startling effect on the quality of light.
Introduce LED into feature areas with modules or tape where no type of
halogen would ever fit.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.