Eco GU10 bulbs

What are your thought's on these: http://www.energybulbs.co.uk/products/Halogen+Light+Bulbs/GU10+Bulbs/Decor+Eco+Halogen+GU10+Bulb+35W%3D50W+-+NEW !/3891470696
If anything, I do hope there are better than standard CFL's.
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http://www.energybulbs.co.uk/products/Halogen+Light+Bulbs/GU10+Bulbs/Decor+Eco+Halogen+GU10+Bulb+35W%3D50W+-+NEW !/3891470696
There just lower wattage GU10s, why do you want to compare them with CFLs?
I see a trend here. I knew there was something I saw in Wicks that I meant to post.
http://bbbbbbmm.netfirms.com/now330w.jpg
http://bbbbbbmm.netfirms.com/now100w.jpg
This is reminiscent of that Gameshow Bullseye. "This is what you would have won". Why not just tell us what is in the box without the eco-bollocks
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Graham.

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These were recommended to me as an alternative to CFL's to save a bit of energy.

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Well, it appears to be claiming the same light ourput as 50W for a 35W bulb. I've seen other manufacturers as well with this sort of thing.
Don't know how accurate are this claims, you won't get the savings of a CFL, but you'll get proper halogen light from them.
--
Chris French


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Horrendous over marketing?
Straight rip off?
35W is a standard GU10 size , no mention of IR envelope or similar that would expect with addition of the `energy saving` tag.
No figures to back up the `equivalence`
Yup a 35W lamp will save you energy, because it produces LESS LIGHT than a 50W one ,pretty simple, if you can cope with less light fine.
LV MR16 is price comparable and will save you money through increased efiiciency without getting conned into awful CFL retrofits
Cheers Adam
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On 21/11/2010 21:16, Adam Aglionby wrote:

There is scope here for a manufacturer to produce a mains halogen that in reality is a 12V bulb and small SMPSU all bundled into the normal bulb form factor. That would get the better efficiency of the lower voltage bulb and hence more lumens per watt.
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Lighting Equipment News did one with Swansea Uni in late nineties, ran a competition for innovative lamp designs, underwhelmed by entries, did their own, GLS format , smpsu in base 12V capsule lamp, think old bug bear of base up burning, cooking electronics was main problem, though the silicon is a lot more integrated now, heat may still be a hassle.
Cheers Adam
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On 22/11/2010 12:51, Adam Aglionby wrote:

Yup, I thought about the heat problem after I posted that...
I wonder if you get any mileage with something really simple like a diode to half wave rectify the mains, and then tweaking the filament design to take advantage of the lower effective voltage. Might gain some efficiency with fairly bulletproof "electronics"...
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John.

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Flicker at 50hz becomes really noticeable, at 60 hz more of a chance.
ETC make theatre dimmer doublers for US market on 120V where each half of cycle is controlled seperately , diode splitter drives 2 seperate 77V lamps but they are 575W with big thermal inertia and at 60Hz.
Cheers Adam

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On 21/11/2010 21:16, Adam Aglionby wrote:

I don't know what the ones mentioned above are. Some figures, all from http://www.sylvania-lamps.com/ :
- Hi-Spot ES50 230-240V 50W WFL 50deg 500cd 2700K
- HI-Spot ES50 40deg 35W 230V Superia ECO 500cd 2750K
So, 10 degrees narrower, 50K bluer.
So not the same, but how unacceptably off?

Not convinced about having 12 transformers on the ceiling, mixing with the insulation, but certainly sold from a different application on the MR16 argument.
Also, hoping for the LEDs to come into the rescue. :-)
Cheers, Kostas
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On 22/11/2010 20:54, Kostas Kavoussanakis wrote:

The problem with the LEDs I have seen so far, is that in order to get a broad spectrum output from them, they seem to use the LED to excite a phosphor coating on the LED - which makes them "LED Fluorescent" rather than pure LED. So while you get rid of some of the CFL limitations, you are still stuck with the poor colour spectrum.
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The best white LEDs are getting very good now, warm whites have a way to go though and efficiency takes a dive.
Cheers Adam
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wrote:

The 10 degrees narrower then quoting output in candela is a cheat, million candlepower torch?
50K cooler not hugely noticeable , the narrower bean might be , same intensity in smaller spot.

Only way is to try a couple in your application.

Trafos should be 85%+ efficient, aluminised rather than dichro LV MR16 are easier to get now which makes a replacement for GU10 a reasonable choice. Save the cost in few months, in lamp replacement alone.

There for 35W but at at some cost.
Cheers Adam

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On 24/11/2010 01:53, Adam Aglionby wrote:

I think we have spoken about this in the past. I have 14 but don't replace more than one a year (maybe because they are on a dimmer and all but 4 @ 20W don't get used much ). I am also worried about the fire hazard.

I am actually pondering about it, at least for the four 20W that I use every day. My dimmer won't be happy with 4x5w = 20w, but maybe there is a way. The colour mix with the other 8 GU10s on the same ceiling will be tricky as well. :-)
Thanks Adam!
Kostas

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wrote:

nae luck ;-)

Personal experinece is that dimmomg and soft starting prolongs lamp life .

What do you perceive is a fire hazard?
GU10 mean already have holes, GU10 may be aluminised rather than dichroic but they are hot running lamps with much lower efficiency.
LV aluminsed are now easy to find if its a low void space, trafos are thermally protected and will tell you if they are unhappy by flashing usually.

Triac dimmable drivers solves that , but probably 9W, 3*3W lamp with big heatsink at back to get a warm white and decent brightness its not a cheap solution and unless its commercial where an installation has a finite tax deductable lifetime not one that will payback cost of install.
Replacing dozen GU10s for decent LV with decent trafos, Mode, decent lamps , probably not Sylvania, will cost a lot less and have a startling effect on the quality of light.
Introduce LED into feature areas with modules or tape where no type of halogen would ever fit.

Your welcome
Cheers Adam

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