I've replaced the fluorescent tube with an LED tube so it now has a dummy starter.
The room has a low ceiling and for various reasons it would suit to turn the light on and off via the dummy starter.
Any reason why it shouldn't be used this way?
I've replaced the fluorescent tube with an LED tube so it now has a dummy starter.
The room has a low ceiling and for various reasons it would suit to turn the light on and off via the dummy starter.
Any reason why it shouldn't be used this way?
how would you do that?
Because it wouldn't work?
Seriously, all et starters I have seem are plugin only Not switches...
twist/untwist the starter, leaving it in place?
The dummy starters are just a dead-short, aren't they?
I've never found a dead short makes a good switch, either..
The contacts aren't designed for repeated insertion/removal. You could always fit a push-on/push-off switch in the end of the dummy starter though.
Yes, so easy enough to fit a switch into.
Before LED tubes were available, I fitted a couple of fluorescent tubes above a work bench. As I wanted to be able to turn them off independently, I mounted one of those small push on/off switches on each one and wired in into the supply. A single 10mm hole and, as I recall, I used the existing wires.
Can't think of any - apart from being a PITA to remove/replace. Why not simply fit a switch?
In message snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk>, "Dave Plowman (News)" snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk> writes
While we are back on LED fluorescent replacements.. I have had an opportunity to explore inrush current issues. Bank of 3 twin 1500mm in T8 fittings. Several occasions when the supply switch has failed to disconnect without a tap from something hard. May just be microswitch toggling unsuitable for this load but unexpected. 20amp claimed!
I don't take it out, a 30deg turn disconnects, go the other way and it switches back on.
It's got quite solid contacts too.
Oh...finally I understand...No that should work OK. for you anyway.
Would puzzle anyone else using it id say
I'm surprised some enterprising company does not make a chord pull switch that fits the old starter socket but is a little longer to allow the switch. Brian
In message <ss38h2$coh$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me, "Brian Gaff (Sofa)" snipped-for-privacy@blueyonder.co.uk> writes
Often tucked away above the tube on single fittings also access issues with diffusers.
Make your own, using the old starter case?
I am interested. So why do you suspect this is an inrush problem?
More likely just a faulty switch IMHO.
The only time I have had inrush problems with LEDs was with HMP Sudbury's car park lights that had a B Type 6A MCB fitted.
No certainty. Just that we had been discussing the published inrush current for these LED tubes and the apparent switch failures (both of them on different occasions) appeared convincing.
Both of them? The toggling action with this weatherproof fitting is not hugely positive so lightly welded contacts following our discussion seemed likely.
Well it is my workshop so I can continue to find a suitable implement to
*tap* the operator for disconnection:-) I don't think they have ever failed to connect. I left the chokes in place. Another few kilograms of CO2 over what remains of my life!HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.