Turn the 3x2 90deg & fix it to the block wall without a head or sole plate?
Turn the 3x2 90deg & fix it to the block wall without a head or sole plate?
You're plonking is still as poor as your lateral thinking tabby-troll.
The "nuts suggestion" being - using a construction adhesive to adhere 75mm deep timbers to a block wall (that is difficult to securely screw into), to create a 75mm void for a 75mm conduit?
And you unsurprisingly think thats nuts? FFS :-D:-D
I think you'd better stop your clearly confused "contributions" as you apparently cannot understand nor visualise either the problem or a possible solution when it's proffered! ;-)
Ah the familiar cat-piss-stinking-armchair expert trolls on...
Glue the 3x2s to the block wall? MS polymer?
I need to batten out a block wall to accommodate some 75mm ducting runs and so, given the depth, will effectively be building a stud wall up against the existing wall.
I am wondering how best to secure the top plate given the presence of the joists hangers preventing me from screwing straight up into the joist, and thought about drilling a hole in the base of the hangers to allow me to do this?
Here's a picture of the hangers I've got:
Is there any risk of weakening the hanger by drilling, say, a single 6mm hole in the base of the 'cradle' to accommodate a screw been driven up into the joist?
Yes, but not in a way that affects the design objective
And screwing something through it mostly restores the strength in that mode anyway.
Not a problem. Paint it with something to stop rust taking over though - even a drying oil should do.
NT
I have considered affixing directly to the wall but am conscious that lightweight blocks aren't the greatest of substrates to make secure attachments too and that utilising the fixed joists might be more straightforward (notwithstanding the fact that all my HSS bits are made of cheese but I can sort that out).
No problem with that. Huge safety margin.
No risk at all IMHO.
BTW it looks like the plasterers did a good job, a nice continuous seam of dot and dab at the top of the boards with no gaps.
Thanks Adam, everyone, will get drilling!
Yes, although there are some gaps at either end (and down the sides) so not perfect from an air tightness perspective. Better than many I've seen though!
What is this guy smoking?
Funny to hear someone who seems to do about zero diy say that to someone who does it more days than not. But whatever, you never contribute, other than the occasional nuts suggestion. Plonk.
You see some of the shit I see at work on new builds.
And a bit of air movement keeps the damp away:-)
Some years ago when coal was losing it top position as King of heating houses (I suppose it depends where you lived in the country as to what fuel you used in those days) my Dad [1] went to a seminar about the benefits of coal fire.
The speaker asked the audience "Name all the benefits of a coal fire"
Some of the replies were
[1] He was a subsidence engineer for NCB/British Coal
You offered 2 nuts 'solutions' to the OP's wish to drill a hole to fix a header to.
NT
To close this one off; I ended up drilling a 5mm hole on the underside of each joist hanger as recommended and screwing the top plate through into the joist above. Everything went well and the frame is now securely in place.
Given that all my drill bits for metal are the ones made of cheese you get in a 1000-in-1 kit for a fiver I decided to 'splash out' on a DeWalt cobalt HSS bit from Screwfix
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