I've got a slow-running drain that's getting worse. A while back I impulse-bought some very cheap drain-rods from B&Q. They're not amazingly flexible...
The blockage is in an outside drain that's fed by the kitchen drain. There's a grid, then a trap/U-bend, then it's straight off to the blockage. The problem is that my drain-rods aren't flexible enough to get around the U-bend!
Are more expensive rods going to be flexible enough for the job? I'm loathe to buy any from somewhere like screwfix in case they turn out to be just as bad...
Its is mandatory regulatioin wise that there be a manhole or ridding point between that trap and any 'corner'
It is in fact mnasdoary to have sopme form or ridding pont at every change of direcion, or where pipes meet.
Search downstream for the manhole cover, and prod upwarsd from there.,
In fact, any drain that fails to respond to a dose of hot caustic soda, needs all its manhole covers opened up and a throrough rogering followed by a good douche with a hose, or pressure washer, afterwards.
If you (by virtue of the blockage or otherwise) have the drain full above the blockage rod it sharply above the trap with a plunger - the water will act as a piston and clear the blockage (hopefully)
In my experience a combination of alternating a garden hosepipe down the drain, with the water turned full on, and a toilet plunger on the drain opening, has done the trick, combined with incredible tenacity and perseverance. Don't buy any more rods. Good luck.
Ta for all the replies! To give a little more background:
I've tried caustic soda a few times over the months with a little success, but not enough to clear the blockage.
I also tried one of the spiral clearing things -- no joy there either.
I've tried the hose-pipe, and I've completely cleared the gulley a few times -- the blockage is further down.
Trouble is that there is no inspection point. This drain runs about 4' and then has a T-junction into another drain, which then runs to a manhole-cover. The other drain is clear, so the blockage seems to be in the 4' that's completely inaccessible!
I think I'm going to try some of the plunger suggestions next!
What sort of gulley is it? Some plastic ones have provision for removing a blanking plate to get direct access to the outlet pipe, or removing the inverted 'J' pipe which goes down to the bottom of the trap for the same effect.
The T junction should have a rodding point. If it hasn't, consider digging it up and adding a manhole cover.
If the caustic has PARTIALLY worked that implies that fatty wastes are building up on something that is lodged in here - could be roots, could be a lump of something nasty.
You COULD try a strong ACID. That may break down cellulose enough to clear the problem.
However, it may not be such a bog job t dig the lot up, depending on what is above, and do the job properly...?
Aye, it wouldn't be a huge job. It's all going to have to come up next year, though, if I get around to having an extension built, so I'm happy to try non-invasive stuff until I've got no other options.
I'd have a good look at things before the contractors turn up if I were you. A few weekends exploring sections at a time might provide dividends now and in the future.
What you gain from knowing that it is all going to be sorted properly in the VNF is that you can make a bodged repair with some wet cloth and grout or whatever.
Make the mistake of leaving it until the contractors come might leave you waiting for stuff like planning permission while living in an insecure building site. If they are rightfully assuming that the plumbing actually leads to a drain and the main council or water company run sewers and then find out you only have a soakaway.....
Seeing as you don't even have rodding points, I am assuming the worst. So should you.
Start with breaking through some point past the S or P trap a place suited to puting a manhole. Building one is dead easy these days with plastic sections.
See how far you can rod down to with the next section and break through there. If you think the plastic sections are too expensive for a temporary job, build with brick or concrete tiles. You can even make your own benching as long as no-one uses it for a day or two.
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