Well, it was pretty straightforward really (but that may depend on the
make and model etc).
As it happened I had a hole though the outside wall that was there for
a wall mounted gas heater flue and the hoses came with isolation
valves and quick connects that made splitting the hoses easy.
I mounted the external unit on the outside wall (I think I 'hangs'
from two screws first then held down with one or two more), poked the
two gas hoses, one condensate drain hose and one cable (to power the
fan, from memory) back though the hole and hooked them up to the floor
standing unit inside.
As an aside ... a mate had one of the low level wall mounted units
fitted and has since remove and re-fitted it himself but it wasn't a
split unit but one with a through wall hose.
Yesterday I *fixed*  the small exhaust hose though wall unit he
picked up a couple of years ago for his shop by cleaning the main
filter and stripping the panels and cleaning the dust from the hot
side rad (that didn't have a filter for some reason).
Cheers, T i m
 It also involved 3D printing an adaptor plate to convert the large
hole on the output to the smaller hose he had though the wall to
minimise the leakage of hot air back into the system and causing it to
shut the compressor down. He has a bigger unit on it's way tomorrow so
I can see my core drill being required again. ;-)
I've fitted 3. All 1200BTHU. I first mount the outside unit on a
wooden platform from 50mm thick timbers about 1 to 2.5 ft above the
ground. The unit is heavy! The robust wall brackets come from
Toolstation or Wickes. As the unit needs to pull air through the fan I
space the units 75mm+ from the wall for ventilation. The exact position
is determined by local obstructions. Remove the indoor unit housing at
this tage. I very carefully work out the indoor unit location and mark
it up, I drill a 60mm approx hole in 3 stages(6mm pilot through the
wall from inside and then 60mm core drill from each side of the cavity
to reduce spalling at breakthrough) where I want the indoor copper
pipework to come through the wall, position the indoor unit mounting
frame where I need it to be to allow the pipes on the indoor to pass
through the wall after being carefully bent to be at right angles to the
indoor unit. The pipes will pass easily through a cavity wall IME,
allowing the copper connections to be made outside. The large hole will
also allow the electrical cable to pass through to the outside unit.
Having given the indoor unit a first trial fit, I then determine where
the condensate tube pass through hole needs to be at the other end of
the unit and drill a 20mm approx hole for this. At this stage, I mount
the indoor unit with all the wires and condensate tube attached and
passed through the wall. You may have to take more of the housing off
the indoor unit to connect the wires. The coupling copper pipework
supplied coiled IME is a pain to unbend, rebend without kinking. Care
is required and it is usually too long. As the coupling flares are
critical to getting a fully gas tight seal I've never cut the pipework
back. Aircon pipe work is brazed, not soldered IME. The next stage is to
determine how the bent pipework is going to run and where the spare
pipework is going to be lost! Think long and hard before this stage as
mistakes are painful! Then very carefully bend/unbend and connect the
pipework, temporarily, fixing the external unit end first as it gives a
rigid mounting. Keep bends as shallow as possible. The foam insulation
on the copper pipework is not bird claw proof so it needs covering
either with the tape supplied or a quick and dirty wooden preservative
coated piece of fabricated trunking. Before the covering stage, loosen
the pipe connections and apply minimal quantities of refrigerant sealing
compound to the connections before tightening the pipework up. At this
stage offer up a couple of prayers and release the gas stored in the
outside unit into the indoor unit. Do not run off too much gas or
cooling/heating will not be effective. Switch on the unit and you should
be in business. Fix the electrical cables as desired. Decide where you
want the condensate tube to run and fix it, cutting it back as required.
Give it a day or 2 then fix the trunking if required. Mine are all
still running OK, the oldest in the garage is 8 years. I mainly use them
for heating. Probably missed out a bit of experience as I did the last
one about 3 years ago and the memory is failing a bit these days! As
they will probably need regassing after 10 years make sure that the
engineer can easily access the gas connections with his regas pipe
connections. He might be a large individual so access space is advisable!
I fitted one from vyair but they don't appear to do them anymore.
It was one where the compressor is out side and the inside unit is a fan
and a big radiator.
Easy to do..
put wall plate on wall,
core drill for the hoses
poke hoses through and multi-core lead for the compressor (the controls
are in the internal unit)
connect the quick connect connectors and the power plug to the outside unit
connect the inside unit to a 20A feed (that's what it said even though
draws less than 2kW)
Turn it on.
Gives ~5k of cooling or heat.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.