Discoloured toilet bowl

That surprises me. Toilets these days are made of vitreous porcelain, i.e. they're non-porous, and are covered with an impermeable high-temperature glaze, fired to around 1200C (not like steel baths which are enamelled at a lower temperature, say around 900C). Even if the integrity of the glaze is compromised, cracked or chipped for example, the underlying ceramic shouldn't absorb stains. The exceptions are old toilets made say pre-WW2 which were earthenware and porous, and the glaze could/would craze and allow water and stain to penetrate into the underlying ceramic.

Virtually all staining is on the glaze surface, either deposits of lime scale that become discoloured, or deposits of iron hydroxides arising from water that has picked up iron from old iron pipes. I would be very cautious about using strong chemicals such as caustic soda or strong acid to remove the staining. Both are capable of etching the glaze and potentially making the problem worse in the longer term, especially caustic soda. I would try some standard lime scale remover first. If that doesn't work, strong bleach, or even hydrogen peroxide, left for a few hours should deal with any organic staining. Only if these fail would I try stronger chemicals, but be very careful when handling them as they can cause burns, and if they get in your eyes will damage them or even cause blindness. Wear rubber gloves and goggles. Concentrated sulphuric acid reacts violently with water so if you do use it, make sure the trap/U-bend is empty and quite dry. Give some thought as to how you're going to get the chemical out of the bowl after you've used it. Simply flushing it away may have unexpected and violent results.

Reply to
Chris Hogg
Loading thread data ...

Block it up with a bunch of plastic bags, fill to the rim, and drop a couple of packs of kettle descaler in. Only problem is, you need to leave it overnight. IME the time it takes to work is not related to the strength of the acid, so no point in messing with sulphuric or hydrochloric. IIRC limescale is soluble at PH4 or less so a mild acid is all that's required. It's not clear to me why caustic soda would have any effect.

Reply to
stuart noble

I guess caustic soda would dissolve the glass below and the limescale would then just lift-off.

Reply to
Fredxx

Glaze isn't glass. Glaze is composed of clay and metallic oxides, which vary according to the desired colour. Fired, it provides an impervious decorative finish. Porcelain santaryware is glazed with a white porcelain glaze.

Cheers Richard

Reply to
geraldthehamster

Another good fix is full strength Coca Cola, leave it to soak overnight, works wonders

Reply to
polly filler

There's the answer then. Place in the freezer for 3 months, next to the fish fingers.... sorted.

Reply to
Justine Time

In article , geoff writes

Dunno, but someone once told me that those tablets that denture wearers use to clean them (Steradent? or similar) makes the bowl sparkling. Chuck one in and leave overnight. Kill two birds with one stone and pop your gnashers in too, but don't flush if you go for a midnight pee.

Reply to
Mike Tomlinson

Glaze _is_ glass, or at least a type of glass, although not like window glass or tableware glass. A sanitaryware glaze is usually made up of quartz and feldspar, with lesser amounts of some or all of whiting, zinc oxide, talc, barium carbonate, china clay, and sometimes a borax frit. Opacifiers are usually added: zircon (zirconium silicate) if the glaze is plain white, or complex pigments if it's coloured. The pigments do not dissolve in the molten glaze when it's fired, so the structure is that of a glass containing undissolved pigments.

Reply to
Chris Hogg

I'll try both - I've got some phosphoric acid lying about, that'll do (as long as it doesn't start removing the glaze)

got some NaOH which is thick as treacle so I'll try that later

(or should I just lob it in on top and run ?)

Reply to
geoff

Oh please, no

You'll get MM Kylix going again

Reply to
geoff

In message , polly filler writes

That's only very dilute phosphoric acid at best

I have the real thing here (and coke, it ain't)

Reply to
geoff

Ich lieber gern ein siedler tauchen

ha ha

(yes, it's meant to be bad grammar)

Reply to
geoff

Your welcome.

MBQ

Reply to
Man at B&Q

Unless you are a real tight wad, just buy toilet limescale remover that is designed for, and does, the job.

MBQ

Reply to
Man at B&Q

I don't disagree; in a sense glaze is a type of glass, just as glass is itself a ceramic ;-). But it's not glass in the sense that seemed to be assumed - a clear coating with the pigment in the "ceramic" behind it.

Cheers Richard

Reply to
geraldthehamster

The debris tends to be a mixture of limescale, with embedded organic matter for colouring.

Brick acid (Hydrochloric) is excellent at dissolving limescale at even quite weak dilutions (a few splashes into the U-trap water will sort out a loo which isn't too bad). The organic matter simply comes free when the limescale is gone - literally one wipe with the toilet brush after it's been standing for a while, and it's as good as new.

You shouldn't use brick acid regularly as it may attack cast iron drains, mortar joints, etc. Also, don't use it on an antique Victorian crapper, but on a reasonably modern pan with undamaged glaze, it should be fine. Flush several times to clear out pipework. (Don't use it on enameled baths though - it will wreck the polished finish, making the surface much harder to keep clean.)

With some weaker proprietry descalers, they seem not to work through the organic matter, so you only remove the top layer of limescale and it doesn't get any further. Bleach is good at temporarily making the organic matter invisible, but much less effective at removing it. If you use a weak descaler, you may need to alternate with something to tackle the organic matter. Washing machine or dishwasher detergent (powder or liquid) work very well for this, particularly if heated. Caustic soda is rather OTT. In any event, don't use one cleaner after another without completely flushing the first from the pan and sewer pipework.

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

En el artículo , Man at B&Q escribió:

That's "You're".

You're welcome.

Reply to
Mike Tomlinson

In message , Man at B&Q writes

You know what?

You're correct - Skitt's law, eh?

Reply to
geoff

In message , Mike Tomlinson writes

Isn't Skitt's Law wonderful

Reply to
geoff

I think that this is all getting just a bit intense for a poor old crapper coating

Reply to
geoff

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.