OK, we've all seen the topics about un-sarked roofs where dirt is
settling in the loft...I myself own an unsarked 1930s end terrace.
If people don't wan't to use the roofspace then what, apart from the
mess, are the disadvantages of leaving the roof unsarked?..the obvious
one would be storage, but we can all get big plastic bags..
What are the advantages...I would assume some boffin would come up
with an airflow calculation ?
What are the 'cheap fixes'?.. I regularly see adverts for spray
insulation ..or maybe battening in normal sheet insulation,,,,
When we moved in the house was generally cold so I tacked up cheap plastic
sheeting (Thicker than dust sheets, thinner than tarpaulin) across all of
the loft timbers.
That immediately stopped the gale blowing through and removing the heat, the
house became warmer straight away.
Subsequent to that I spent about 30 quid on plaster sheeting (small ones
that fit through the loft access hole) and nailed them over the sheeting in
the "standing area". It works fine as a model railway room - looks a bit
crap but who sees it anyway.
On Wed, 24 Sep 2003 08:17:44 +0100, a particular chimpanzee named
Sarking felt is primarily there to prevent wind uplift of the tiles or
slates. It has a secondary function of being a second weatherproof
layer if the first one fails (i.e., a slipped tile, or driving rain
blowing water up between the tiles).
If your choice is between a 'cheap fix' of spraying the underside with
that gunk that sticks the tiles down or leaving it as is, then I would
leave it as is. In fact, if the choice was between spraying the
underside with that gunk that sticks the tiles down or sticking
needles into your eyeballs, I would go with the latter.
It's not the gale that removed the heat. If there was any heat in the
loft, it was due to inadequate insulation.
Any vapour impermeable material (i.e., polythene sheeting) should not
be installed on the 'cold' side of the insulation, as it causes any
water vapour to condense rather than being ventilated away.
"You know, I'd rather see this on TV,
There was insulation on the floor - a bit thin for modern standards, but not
I put the sheeting on the roof timbers so there is a couple of meters gap
between the floor insulation and the roof polythene (at least 12 inches
between them at the eaves) - there has never been a problem with
condensation or damp.
I have this felt in my garage with a pitched roof. However, the felt's
all shot, flaky and hanging down.
What's the procedure for renewing this. I don't really want to gunk up
the underside of the tiles particularly.
Any tips for putting new up. Where is it affixed to. Do I need to take
the old down first or affix over the top in true bodge fashion ?
On 25 Sep 2003 11:55:05 -0700, a particular chimpanzee named
firstname.lastname@example.org (Zymurgy) randomly hit the keyboard and
Roofing felt is fixed to the top of the rafters, secured with battens
over at right angles to which the tiles or slates are nailed. If you
need to renew, the tiles and the battens will have to be stripped off.
Once you've done this, the old felt will come off easily, so there's
no point in keeping it on.
"You know, I'd rather see this on TV,
eek. Is there no way of fixing (read bodging) this from below ?
I really don't want to strip off the tiles as they're currently in
reasonable condition (although the apex sags a bit) and are
It's only a garage !!
One advantage I found was the ability to re tile the roof from the inside
which saved money on Scaffolding :-)
I now rent out the house so am not likely to do anything to the inside but
during the 7 years we lived there the biggest nuisance was the dirt. The
plastic bags kept the stuff clean but the floor under the hatch looked like
a garden whenever we moved anything around in the loft.
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