Digging fence post holes - auger or "post hole digger"?

[PeterC]

Or, as I did, a rusted 5 gallon drum when only about 3" more needed - at least I had a fair bit of soil handy.

[Dave W]

That was the first suggestion I made to 'the man', but he said he'd tried that and it didn't work. Maybe he didn't try hard enough.

[Andrew Gabriel]

One comment I would make - make sure the holes have flat bottoms with good square corners where the base meets the side. Many years ago, I dug a couple of holes for a neighbour, and I did as I said here. The holes he dug were shaped like someone had pushed a football into the soil. A year later in a strong wind, all his concrete lumps rotated in their holes leaving his bit of the fence leaning (none of the posts snapped), and the ones I did were still upright.

[Dave Liquorice]

Sounds more like they wern't deep enough. Rule of thumb is 1/3 in the ground as is above. 6' fence uses 8' posts with 2' in the ground.

Admitedly a square lump is less likely to rotate than a ball (in socket).

[hewhowalksamongus]

I have been having the same thoughts.

I think an auger is too specific and can suffer a lot if conditions arn't ideal for it.

The post hole diggers ("the scoops hinged together") look great and are efficient, but pricey and can't help you dig out old concrete.

A digging spade is good for creating small diameter holes but if the soil has rocks or concrete then it cannot dislodge these.

I am tempted a digging bar which is really just a small blade to loosen the soil. The other end is a tamper to flatten and compact the soil at the bottom of the hole. This will be the neatest method, but lots of scooping soil.

A digging bar is much more flexible in jobs you can do and will not get stuck. But it means a lot of being on your knees cleaning out the loose soil.

If you are really stuck with a mess in the hole a pick axe/mattock this will clear a large hole through anything and will make a big mess.

I think it comes down to the soil type, fix/repairing old posts or new holes. Most importantly how many holes you need to dig and how much you want to spend.

Also I find the post mix bags are just too small for 1 post, unless you are good/lucky enough to get it just right everytime. Buy bulk bags or small bags and mix your own. (depends how many holes you need)

I position the post before adding concrete with some large bricks to wedge the post before.

If time and effort are not a problem and you really want to save costs I managed to re-fence my garden at about 100 a saving of about 2500. That after 2 years a post has come loose because the concrete surrounding the post has broken a now the post can rock. It is true but I am ok with the fact that the posts will probably only last about 10 years. (lots of cresote poored down the lower part of the post) Also the posts twisting above ground is a problem.

[Fred]

Are people talking about the petrol driven augers or hand powered ones? I've not used either but thought the powered one looks fun ;)

[terence.heaver]

I think that's 1/4 Dave ;)

[Brian Gaff]

Has this argument been going on since 2013? I'd imagine some so called treated wood by now would have rotted away. Brian

[FMurtz]

We work on a third round here

[The Other John]

It's 1/4 of the post but 1/3 of the fence and 5 years late! :)

[Roger Hayter]

But is it a third of the whole post, or third of the part above ground?

[Robin]

I can well believe it's a third of the whole post. I've seen that recommended for high wind loads in the UK. And there's lots of other risks to fences Down Under - eg people clambering over them to get away from a funnel-web, or a redback, or a common brown, or an inland taipan, or...