Desoldering a copper pipe tee

Probably remove the existing T and replace it along with the new reducer and solder the whole thing all at the one time .

If it were me, have your new reducer cleaned, fluxed and ready to go, you _may_ get away with being able to whip it in while the heat is still being applied to the joint so the old solder never cools.

If the joint remains in situ I don't think you stand much chance of cleaning it out once the solder goes hard again.

Luck. :¬) You won't be able to apply enough heat to the joint to just melt the bit you want. All other joints will go lose too so if you manage to get the old one out and the new one in then make sure you re feed all the other ends with new solder.

Try it and be prepared to remake the whole joint with all new bits from scratch. Far better to do it right once than spend a day attempting to re-make the old joint.

You'll also need a good heat source to keep the heat local.

IMVHO Pete

Speed is the best way to go about this job.

Have the new reducer cleaned up, fluxed and ready to insert. Heat up the old joint and melt the solder. Withdraw the old reducer and offer up the new one before the joint cools too much. Heat the new fitting and the existing fitting together until they are inserted, now brush on some extra flux around the completed joint and solder up in the usual way.

On Sun, 28 Sep 2008 19:16:08 +0100 someone who may be asalcedo wrote this:-

Don't do that. If the tee was made properly then it was cleaned at the time and there is now a layer of solder over the copper.

Clean and flux the reducer and have it to hand, with the 22mm pipe inserted into it. Heat up the tee and remove the existing reducer, then insert the new reducer (you will probably need to tap it in gently with something) fully. Solder that and then the 22mm pipe and then check that all arms of the tee are still properly soldered and none have gone dry.

Tapping a fitting on usually works with one fitting. It becomes more problematic with more than one fitting, especially if access is limited. For example in this situation it may only be possible to solder a fairly short length of 22mm pipe on and you will need another fitting close by. Your chances of success may only be 50/50, so prepare for having to do the whole thing again.

I'd wipe around the inside with a cotton rag before the solder resets.

I'd try wrapping a damp/wet cotton rag around the pipes adjacent to them to sink the heat away.

cheers, Pete.

Cut back the pipe & start again. Make up the assembly you need & join it back in using a straight coupling.

Clean the area of the joints as best you can.

If there is any way of immobilising the parts which don't need to come apart then do so - perhaps by binding with a clean wire coat hanger etc.

Then keep the heat localised to remove the old reducer. Flux the new, heat, and tap into place. Add solder as normal.