Decorating problem solved and confession.

Wife was out shopping yesterday and came home with a tub of Polyfilla "finishing skim" so I guess the problem of how to deal with the "blown" plaster is solved. Hope it works as easily as it says.

Now, I had striped most of the paint from the banisters but the bottom of the Newel post still had a touch of paint on it so decided as I had such fun (FSVO) with the heat gun yesterday would fire that up and whip off the rest of the paint. Unfortunately due to the proximity of the carpet to the bottom of the Newel post, some Nylon in the make up of the carpet[1] and inattention on my part managed to melt/scorch a piece of the carpet just as well we are planning to replace same. Rug at the bottom of the stairs in the mean time.

[1] A wool/Nylon mix, as this is(was) a very heavy traffic area so we perceived a need for a very hard wearing carpet. Now the boys are older and more sensible we don't need to 'armour' everything so much. In actuality the carpet was a bit of overkill as the boys weren't that 'rough'. But as it looked fine anyway (just a tad expensive) we kept it perhaps a little (FSVO) longer than strictly necessary. Boys are 21 and 18 now. 18 year old has special needs but physically is a strong giant (even if he can't keep effort up long due to his lungs not working properly) so we still have to watch for him, but he tends (now) to be a bit less boisterous.
Reply to
soup
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If it's the same stuff I used some years ago for plaster repairs, it's really easy to use, because it goes "off" very, very slowly, so you've got a chance of getting it flat.

Reply to
Huge

You know some textiles seem to have a very low melting point. I hardened a sofa throw, with a furry outside by merely having it two feet away from a fan heater.

Brian

Reply to
Brian_Gaff

In article , soup writes

For amateurs like thee & me, it's prob a good idea to draw a rigid straight edge over the surface of each repair while wet to check for dips & proud areas as it's too easy to end up with dips in the surface which will show up after decorating.

Stabilising what's there first with a dilute mix of PVA wouldn't do any harm either and when dry, run a scraper gently over the surface to remove any bits of surface grit before moving on. Check for a smooth surface by running your hands over it.

Reply to
fred

Don't want to burn too much of that - Wool gives off cyanide when burned, and is a common cause of death due to smoke inhalation in fires.

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

Good luck. IMHO nothing to do with fixing plaster is ever easy. ;-)

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

En el artículo , soup escribió:

I bought some recently. If it's the pre-mixed stuff, it's absolute s**te.

Reply to
Mike Tomlinson

An old handsaw is useful for leveling before and/or after plastering IME.

Reply to
stuart noble

Jim K

Reply to
Jim K

Well,.....it's straight, and the teeth are hopefully still sharp enough to cut, or at least accurately mark, the high spots.

Reply to
stuart noble

and then what? do it all again as you've got hollows and (now scratched) high spots?

have you done this then?

Jim K

Reply to
Jim K

Why else would I mention it?

Reply to
stuart noble

is that a yes or a no?

Jim K

Reply to
Jim K

What is wrong with you? Yes, I have used a handsaw to level rough plastering. I'm not asking you to do the same

Reply to
stuart noble

Er Me??

I'm just asking the somewhat obvious questions about a somewhat doubtful sounding "technique" you are advocating....

Have you done this more than once?

Jim K

Reply to
Jim K

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