Decent shed

On Tuesday 23 July 2013 13:47 mogga wrote in uk.d-i-y:

Use treated timbers for the base plates. After that it is a little less important if you can build and maintain it watertight.

Go onto youtube and see if you can find Tommy Walsh builds a shed (was on telly last year) - it did have some good tips, especially wit the roof.

You could make light work of this with a combi sliding saw and for fixings use ScrewTite, Reisser or Pasload screws - these are all very good - will self drill, not much splitting risk and using some 5mm x "quite long" (as suits the joint) will give you good strong joints with minimal woorking skills (the sliding saw will take care of that).

Nailgun for fixing the cladding or smaller Screwtites (etc) if you really want to.

Power screwdriver.

You must decouple the shed from the ground - at least with some DPC.

For extra water titghtness/wind presistance, wrape the frame in DPM plastic sheet and staple on tight and smooth before cladding.

Just some ideas :)

To be fair my first workshop[1] was built with 75x50 and was around

(being my first studwork project I neglected to stick to a divisor of 4' for my joist spacings, which made lining it harder! So don't do that)

Don't have one of them - but it might have to go on the shopping list! :)

Thank you! :)

I think I need a shed that big for my junk but would be running out of garden. This 8x6 is for the allotment. :)

I like the door! :)

On Tuesday 23 July 2013 15:23 mogga wrote in uk.d-i-y:

That rings a bell.

If you want :) I would say you could survive with well chosen screws and a power driver, but it will take 4-6 times as long. That may of course not be a problem :)

On Tuesday 23 July 2013 15:25 mogga wrote in uk.d-i-y:

In that case John's right 'cos he's actually done it. I was extrapolating my experiences of making 2x4" studwork for walls.

I built a 10' by 16' using 2x4 and the timber was way oversized - 2x3 would have easily been sufficient, for a 6'x8' I would consider 2x2 (but probably plump for 2x3 - I prefer over-engineered).

The first shed I "made" I bought in flat-pack. Was so flimsy I wouldn't ever consider it again - I'd build it myself.

Can recommend an impact driver + turbogold screws.

On Tuesday 23 July 2013 17:11 Piers wrote in uk.d-i-y:

Those turbogold look very similar to Reisser so I agree.

You do not *need* an impact driver, but that is not a reason not to get one of course :)

I have an earlier version of this:

which does all my screwing needs upto around 5mm x 110mm

For the odd big buggers, I stick a bit in my mains drill.

Having said that, the roofers I had used an impact driver not much bigger than mine and it was deeply impressive, so maybe you have good cause :)

If it counts as an early Christmas present for him then it'll solve that problem too! :)

Why no floor?

Brian

Aye, our shed is an 8 x 6 flat pack. The frames and intermediate verticals about every couple of feet are at the most 1.5" square. Individual panels are a bit "flimsy" but once all bolted together pretty riged. It stayed together when the wind rolled it over...

If I was going to build my own shed of 8x6 size 2x2 is ample. I'm assuming 8x6 is feet, maybe those proposing 4x2 (inch) timbers are assuming the 8x6 is metres? B-)

Na, feeble. Try:

or

Yup they are very similar...

;-)

feet!

We've got a concrete base done - it's for a composting toilet and we reckoned a concrete floor means it'll be easier than boards to keep clean if it gets messed up.

Ah, in that case I'd lift the walls off the floor by an inch and fit a slatted wooden floor at least for a few square feet in front of the throne. Gap is so you can easily hose/pressure wash it out and provide ventilation, slatted platform can be removed have hosed/pressure washed and replaced. Ordinary concrete is porous, it will absorb "stuff", so it needs a waterproof screed or very well sealing/painting

Surely the size of the framing members relates to the frame/rafter spacing. So 4x2's would sit further apart than 3x2's.

And then the cladding will have a bearing. (If sheeting it with 3/4" ply th is would add considerable strength.)

I've built two sheds and am considering a third. I used corrugated iron she eting for roof (with some translucent panels ), back and sides. Front and d oors were done with t&g. Them my sheds are hidden behind the garage/worksho p (never had a car in it) so the aesthetics weren't too important

Yeah we were looking at a leveling compound of some sort to make it look nice too - I assume that or floor paint would stop stuff sticking.

Removable floor is an interesting idea. We could have access to a jet washer a few hundred yards away.