Dead simple plumbing/hot water question

Read what I wrote dope. He needs 1.5 bar to operate the hose. Then a big expensive noisy pump is needed. Not worth it as the hoses are not used much anyhow, as most people have dishwashers. And as the hot and cold are still not equal pressure the mixing is not going to be pretty good either.

If he really wants this hose thingy then best get a full mains pressure system. One pump on one tap for just a hose?

Reply to
Doctor Drivel
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OP wants a hose tap with good pressure and fast hot water flow.

Your solution is to say that the OP is mistaken and what he actually wants is a crap normal tap that you can use for hosing down pots and cleaning the sink.

I tell you, I'm really regretting not getting one myself, as it is a pain cleaning the sink without one.

Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle

What he should have done is bought the right taps to suit his system.

Reply to
Doctor Drivel

Bath units tend not to be so difficult as many are available with 22mm fittings.

Snag is he obviously wanted the design he bought - as I did. Although there was nothing in the instructions about it being high pressure only. So the obvious answer is a pump - which ups the total cost, but does the job. And much more cheaply than converting to a high pressure hot water system - if you already have a decent storage one.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

He washes his vegetables in a dishwasher. 'Nuff said.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

With twin combis, obviously.

The person who recommends the most extravagant systems can't understand that a pump works. Probably because it involves electricity.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

EricP wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

I agree with your critiscisms of the system, but I tried raising the CW tank, a few feet was all I could gain and it made buggerall differenceand was a lot of work.

I found the answer was to fit a pump, but to get the benefit you have to improve the feed to the cylinder; at least 22mm, few corners, preferably bends, full bore ball valve.

Then as the pipework after the HW cylinder seems equally horrible, upgrade to 15 mm all the way to the tap; hopefully your tap will have 10mm tails, not 6mm - that will help.

mike

Reply to
mike

Not on single hole monoblocks, their just ain't the space. This bath filler is feed via 15mm tube into the base. It'll have 22mm for everything but the last few inches mind including full bore "service" valves. The basin filler has 10mm tails.

Boundary Bathroom do do some kitchen stuff as well. The simple act of buying a tap isn't quite as simple as first appears. Lots of things to take into consideration and then you have to find the relevant data from the makers, which sometimes isn't easy. Also low pressure systems are a bit of a UK peculiarity, a lot of "designer" taps from the continent are HP only.

All this isn't a problem, provided you go in with yoru eyes open and with solutions for the possible problems in mind, if you *really* must have

*that* tap.
Reply to
Dave Liquorice

You didn't, you didn't know the difference between low and high pressure taps.

Reply to
Doctor Drivel

Will you please eff off as you are an idiot.

Reply to
Doctor Drivel

Will you please eff off as you a complete idiot.

Reply to
Doctor Drivel

Isn't that classed as child cruelty?

Reply to
Ron Lowe

And you wouldn't know a well designed one if it was stuck up your arse.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Will you please eff off as you are a total idiot.

Reply to
Doctor Drivel

John[/i][/color][/i][/color]

- I just installed a Grundfos 15/90 Home Booster pump on system that sounds remarkably like yours. The difference is immesurable to be honest - and was doddle to fit under the kitchen sink. Its almost silent and turns on only when required. I looked for ages on ebay and finally picked up a brand new one for £20 - I think the retail price is c £100.-

I can't believe this. Another one!!! One pump on one tap. You ge your Association application form soon.

- But it will save hours and hours of fitting a new run.-

All he has to do is fit the right taps, circa £50.

- I'm sure this is not the most professional way to do it-

You bet your boots it is not.

Well I'm not a regular contributor - but regular browser of this foru and its kind of hard to follow all the inane "banter" however - the mai point is that a) it would be more "efficient" for the OP to install a high pressur System b) failing this, totally re-run the pipework from the cylinder and use frankly grotesque tap from the screwfic catalogue last seen in a schoo kitchen c.1978

The truth is that fancy-schmantzy taps that look good in a nice moder kitchen generally are designed for high pressure systems only. From th Sheds to fleabay they;re all the same mass prioduced continental crap - had to take back three taps to B&Q as they leaked very very slightl causing it to drip - v annoying. I sense the OP like me did not want to rip out his entire central heatin system in order to install a tap and was probably unwilling to use a nast looking one "designed" for gravity fed systems. The pump - as it happen with a total cost £20 is a pretty good half-way house. The pressure i much better (not perfect of course) and now my nice tap that looks nic on my nice sink in my nice kitchen works. I thought this was a DIY forum - and should therefore give peopl practical advice to questions that are perplexing them - there are man solutions to the OPs original dilemma - it would seem that most of th suggestions are perfectly valid (including my own I think) and the OP ca choose which route to follow according to how much time and effort he i perpared to put into the solution. BTW having one pump on one tap - dont know what the difference is between this and having a single pump o a single shower which I have too and cant believe is particularl uncommon?

-- alexbartman

Reply to
alexbartman

It's quite easy really - just ignore Drivel except when he gives some reference to a new bit of kit he's got from a catalogue. That can be useful for those who don't have the time to do nothing else but read such things. For advice on whether it might be of use, look elsewhere. Plenty of truly skilled and objective advice here from both those working in the industry and skilled amateurs.

Depends on how you'd define 'efficiency'. If it's a simple matter of energy in to energy out that *might* be the case. If it means an efficient system for your needs other factors apply.

Bit like the argument between some low energy lamps and filament types?

Since I have a three story house with the tank as high as possible, the difference in my case wasn't great. But adding the pump was worth it too.

Dribble delights in giving the most convoluted half baked answers to the simplest problems. Probably in an attempt to show his 'superior' knowledge. Luckily, he's just about the only one, so just follow the majority advice.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

And one is get the right taps for the system. B&Q and Screw are not the only people who sell taps. Contact the makers they will always help. Blindly buying something because you like the look or it is cheap can lead to problem - and invariably they do.

Reply to
Doctor Drivel

Will you please eff off as you are a complete idiot.

Reply to
Doctor Drivel

So why are you proposing buying cheap taps?

Reply to
Andy Hall

Matt, you must read. Cheap doesn't necessarily mean bad if you know what you are buying. Conversely the same with expensive and you know with those rip-off Makita's you bought that perform no more than PP Pro.

Reply to
Doctor Drivel

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