Creaks fixed

On Thursday 01 August 2013 17:21 Muddymike wrote in uk.d-i-y:

Yes. Next question...

My advice re your boards (if not now, but next time) is to screw them down. Makes future lifting easier and less likely to develop new creaks.

except when it involves nailing through the pipe underneath.

Ah but it takes years of skill to put a nail into a pipe in such manner that it doesn't leak straight away and set up in such away that it fails 3 years later 30 mins after you lock the front door at the start of a fortnights holiday. Then not to fail so badly that water starts to leak out of the house altering neighbours, but badly enough to bring down the ceilings and soak everything else.

They are genetically programmed to be unable to do so.

Our landing was the same. So noisy me walking across it would wake up SWMBO.

Yup, same story here. Our landing is only about 8' x 6' and had 9 separate pieces of chipboard, none of which were fixed down properly.

And why do builder fix skirting with bloody great long nails so that the skirting and the wall gets wrecked if you try to remove it?

Also the nails go through the TV cable for the room below. This is surprisingly common.

Bill

Moral of the story is to turn off the water when going on holiday.

I am more and more convinced that houses should be designed in such a way t hat wiring and plumbing can be added later by means of large conduits or in spection hatches or crawlways. My last two houses have had easy access unde r the roof or false ceilings to add new wiring, e.g. for broadband cables t hat were not thought of 50 years ago.

I've corrected your post for you.

;-)

On Friday 02 August 2013 03:06 Matty F wrote in uk.d-i-y:

I did that. I have 2 basket trays running in counter-opposites U's around 3 sides of the house. One for LV (mains) and the other for ELV (12V SELV, networking, aerials etc).

Plumbing runs along the base of the dormer walls above and in front of the trays.

In both cases, drops run effortlessly parallel to the joists to their final destination.

The plumbing will have some removal panels in front at the expense of 50mm of wall thickness.

Naah, I managed it without any effort.

Hear, hear, but it costs money.

Wasp nest removers seem to have been to the same floorboard fixing school I fancy, as I have a creaky floor after they took it up to kill the colony under there.

Brian

"Brian Gaff" wrote in news:ktfurd$tt0$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:

....and if the builders had done good job then there would be no way that the wasps would hve got in.

On Friday 02 August 2013 10:35 Huge wrote in uk.d-i-y:

But next to bugger all.

Oval conduit costs peanuts and is no more difficult to fit than capping and barely any thicker.

Not even from your knees, after all that work on the floor?

Colin Bignell

If you're a housebuilder, every £ you can save is a £ more in your pocket.

Well I have been involved in stuff like that - running cables in underfloor conduits and over the tops of suspended ceilings.

The ability to route cables is not the issue: what is is the time and cost of terminating them..

Moral of the story is to turn off the water when going on holiday.

I am more and more convinced that houses should be designed in such a way that wiring and plumbing can be added later by means of large conduits or inspection hatches or crawlways. My last two houses have had easy access under the roof or false ceilings to add new wiring, e.g. for broadband cables that were not thought of 50 years ago.

I alway wire my houses so that wiring drops to switches/sockets are in conduit.