Corner toilet installation experience

I have just completed a corner toilet installation, and thought my experience my help future DIYers.

Given the size and shape of the toilet room, I decided that a corner toilet would provide the most comfortable (roomy) option.

Looking at the corner toilets available, without costing a fortune; I did not like the most common ones available at a reasonable price (looks) and the one I liked the most, Rak, was too expensive and not dual flush. So, I, regrettably, chose to buy a Rak look a like off eBay.

The external visual appearance of the delivered toilet was ok, but of moderate finish quality - but that was not the major problem. Some time after receipt (long story) I got round to installing, first deciding on what waste connector was optimal, from the horizontal toilet outlet to corner floor waste outlet. I normally use the common, push on connectors, with great success; on this occasion, the connector would not hold on the toilet outlet - it turns out (fault 1) that the outlet tapers to the rear, allowing the connector to slide off. So I searched for an alternative and came up with the McCalpine Flexible WC Connector,

90-114mm inlet x 110mm outlet, with locking band. I thought the locking band would secure the rubber connector to the toilet outlet, which it did (kind of!). So then I installed and tested the toilet. I found I had two leaks. The first was easy to identify and fix - the flush mechanism was not sitting flush inside the cistern, as it was catching on a locking screw attaching the cistern to the base - resolved by turning the flush mechanism 30degrees and refixing (only downside is that the dual flush buttons are not front to back, they have to be set 30degrees off (just an aesthetic). The more significant problem was that the waste seal to the toilet outlet was leaking past the tightened band. On examination (fault 2) the finish round the toilet outlet was not smooth, kind of bobbly surface on the underside, so the band did not have a good surface to compress against. My solution (botch) was to refix the connector, tighten the band, then use Plumbers Gold to seal and adhere, between the inside of the connector and the toilet outlet (I also put some Plumbers Gold between the connector and the toilet outlet at the toilet side of the band (gluing the connector to the outlet). I then put this under test (constant full immersion) for a couple of days without evident leak. The toilet was then re-installed, with no apparent leaks thus far.

Key lesson learned: When buying sanitary ware, go where you can examine the product, or at least within a easily returnable distance, and check it out on receipt.

Hope that helps someone.

Paul R

Reply to
Paul R
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In message , Paul R writes

I used the Twyfords offering for space and where the builders had installed the soil piping reasons.

To allow room for an air admittance valve, I actually put the toilet clear of the side (door) wall and made a strong securing bracket for fixing the cistern.

Reply to
Tim Lamb

For our corner toilet installations we used a standard back-to-wall toilet with a diagonal blanking plate across the corner to the height of the cistern (upstairs) and floor-to-ceiling downstairs.

This give a neat appearance and plenty of space to conceal the air admittance valve and all the pipework.

This allows the use of good quality reasonably budget toilets without the extra expense of the wedge shaped ones.

Cheers

Dave R

Reply to
David

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