It does'nt he's tried to express it and used the wrong word "bead" "channel", the flat bottom is what you get when using a fluted straight
bit, a runner channel if you like.
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite
Little disappointed that I'm having to define a 'corner bead'.
Axminster and Trend both identifiy their router cutters as this.
Now the characteristic of both of these and others is that the groove,
or if you look at the picture of either of these, the bottom section of
the cutter, is square across and what I would prefer from looking at
some older mouldings, is that this is a V, rather than a U, if you
There is no way I'm going to use a scratch block on facings round four
doors, and there is also the possibility that there is 200 ft of pine
to be moulded.
Hope this explains better !!
oops! I'll get me coat.
But I would like to know why you didn't post the links in the first place?
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite
Very few router cutters bear any resemblance to traditional mouldings.
Don't know why this is - I guess the cutter "designers" have simply not
bothered to look at trad woodwork examples and have just made them up
instead. The beading cutters available are a perfect example of this -
there is no reason for such a simple design not to exactly replicate a
trad design but they just don't bother - as a result so much router
work looks crap.
If you want to do it properly either 1 use a hand moulding plane - lots
of old ones still available for sale and cheaper than a router cutter,
or 2 make your own spindle moulder cutter, or 3 get a router cutter
made up or modified by a saw doctor or engineering shop.
What are "facings"?
The way I see it now is he wants a raised 'V' so could you not use one of
to give you this VVVV using correctly spaced marked lines down the
facing(architrave), or is this again not what your after?
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite
That will work in theory but the practice is an extremely uneven
thickness of ridge (actually an "arris" between flutes). It's partly
because of the angle amplifying movement in the plane into a larger
perpendicular movement. Mainly though it's because you're relying on a
tiny difference between two larger measurements (fence to cutter). Any
tiny proportional error in the fence difference is actually a huge
difference in ridge width.
On 19 Nov 2005 10:44:54 -0800, " firstname.lastname@example.org"
Why not ? Andif it's a lot, then find a wooden moulding plane to use.
I've just done a frame-and-panel chest in oak that was about 50' of
small bead on the edges of each frame, then bigger mouldings around the
lid. All of this was done with wooden moulders, because they give the
best results. I also used a scrath stock for the ends of the stopped
mouldings. I'm not going to screw up a job like that by letting a router
or a spindle moulder near it!
You will just never get a router cutter to make as sharp a vee in a
moulding as you can easily get by hand.
If it's only pine, then use a router. It won't take such a fine moulding
anyway. If it's 200' then it's probably hemlock rather than a true pine
and that's also a pig to work with a moulding plane.
Spindle moulder is the best possible tool for accurate repro of period
mouldings especially if large quantity is involved - as long as you
make your own cutters to match, easier than it sounds.
Router cutter could do it but they just don't make them that way.
Only pine! Whats wrong with pine? Most of Britains best
Georgian/Victorian joinery is made of pine and is superb in
Pine will take just as fine a moulding as any other wood - no problem,
infact is easier to machine than most hardwoods, given selected good
quality material and sharp cutters.
Start with pair blank HSS plates big enough for the moulding you want.
You make a pair but only one cuts the other is for balance i.e. doing
it by hand and eye is difficult to make them both cut - not not
Next transfer the design to the plates - I'm usually copying existing
so I simply trace around a cleaned up sample with a pencil on to the
plate previously paint-aerosoled to take pencil marks.
Next rough out the waste with an angle grinder.
Then grind out the profile with a bench grinder and various sizes of
wheel as necessary - checking by offering up the original. This is all
square-on so far.
Next back off the profile to make a cutting edge.
Then fine adjust the edge by offering up the original sample piece - AT
THE ANGLE OF CUT as near as possible - i.e. the hollows will be made
deeper etc. Grind away until there is a perfect fit and a sufficiently
backed off cutting edge. This sounds imprecise as it depends on hand
and eye but the results can be perfect with a bit of practice. Do it in
front of a good light so you can see where the cutter doesn't meet the
You could make limiters if you really want to but I use the old
Whitehill blocks (pre-safety regs) as these permit very fine adjustment
and alteration of the angle. You just have to be more careful and not
allow anyone else to use the machine.
The other advantage of the old blocks is that you can cut more profiles
around the other 3 sides of the plates. Forget about exact matching
pairs but just aim at balancing the block enough to stop it vibrating
or humming too much.
I now have hundreds of profiles in my box for very little outlay -
would cost thousands in router cutters which would be crap anyway as
they don't match old joinery - not to mention the noise, dust and
inconvenience. Many of them get modified slightly as new jobs come in,
but HSS doesn't seem to need much sharpening.
You could do it with safety cutters the same but you'd loose the fine
adjustability I imagine, but a tilting arbor might solve the prob.
PS wear goggles - always start the machine with a large block of wood
in front of the cutters in case you have forgotten to tighten something
- use push sticks or power feed - put all guards in place, etc etc
On 20 Nov 2005 03:56:33 -0800, email@example.com wrote:
OK. Now it makes sense. Do you do the initial "square on" work with
two blanks clamped together, or simply cut a second roughly to match
the first, perhaps a cut a bit further back to avoid high spots?
Hmm.... I'm interested as to how you would get into very fine, acute
angled places. Do you have narrow wheels for this or is there another
Wheel as well? Do you use a jig of some sort to create a consistent
Do you measure that using the knives mounted on the block and on the
machine itself, or is there another way? I hadn't really thought
about this aspect, but presumably this also depends on the block
I guess that anyway on older mouldings the cutters may well have been
made by hand, so this is a good way.
OK, so they didn't have the peg arrangement of the new ones?
So there's some kind of a flat clamping arrangement?
I think that on some of the newer ones, one would have to put in some
kind of piece to act as a limiter to make the clamp work, even if it
wasn't cut to near the profile of the main cutter(s).
Presumably on the machine itself?
Are these generally relatively short runs anyway?
Definitely. This is one machine that I treat with a great deal of
respect and always follow a check list twice for tightening things and
checking free running.
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