I have today become the proud owner of a 110mm core bit together with hex arbor, which I purchased from Toolstation. The kit also included what looks like on off-set flat screwdriver bit (some king of wedge, maybe?), but no guide bit. Rather than incur further carriage charges, I thought I might nip into B&Q for one, but how do I know what size to get? Also, do I need anything else to make this thing work properly?
Dave.
What sort of drill do you have? IME, you'll need one rated at around 1kW with a low gear (so you can run the motor at top speed but not have the core drill running too fast). SDS drills can be good for this (but you don't want any hammer action). Also, make damn sure you use one with a clutch, so you are less likely to injure yourself when the bit jams/snags and the drill tries to go round instead. Keep an eye on the drill temperature, and if it starts getting hot, take the core bit off and run the drill at full speed with no load to cool it down.
Depends what you're drilling into also -- the above is my experiance of going through quite hard bricks. If it's thermal blocks, you can just couple it up to a brace and bit ;-)
When you've got it working can you come round and do my flue exit hole ;-)
-- Mike W
A drift for removing the cores from the drill afterwards?
, but no guide bit. Rather than incur
Take it with you and try a few?
A power drill is definitiely an advantage compared to a bit & brace. A hefty one, with clutch control preferably.
I wonder how insane someone would have to be to try to use a 110mm core bit with a brace and bit.
I'd probably give it a go for the soft materials suggested. I like hand tools!
-- Mike W
My Toolstation kit takes an 8mm x 110mm 'A taper' pilot bit. Couldn't find any at B+Q, but got one from the local tool hire place (actually got a 200mm one - holds better). My kit came with a pilot bit - should yours have done? If it was missing, Toolstation are very good - they'll send it out separately.
Andrew
This is a "drift" for removing the pilot drill. You should have a hole through the side of the arbor near the business end of it that accepts said bit of metal. The guide bit (which wedges into the arbour using a tapered shank), is removed by hammering the drift into the side of the arbour where the wedge shape pushes the bit out of the end of the arbour.
You may not find drills with taper shanks in B&Q
A drill!
We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the drugs began to take hold. I remember John Rumm saying something like:
He will find them in hire shops - many of whom sell bits and pieces, especially pilot drills, which get lost with depressing regularity.
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