Cooker hood!

[ianatkinsonbsc]

Hi all,

I've just moved house and am in the process of getting my kitchen ready for new units and appliances fitted (it's empty at the moment) and about the only thing I have left to work out is how to wire in the cooker hood! I'm struggling a bit with this one so I have for some advice...

I've just had a good look through the past posts on here and there seems to be lots of good tips, from what I can gather I'm best wiring it into a switched and fused spur off the ring main?

I also gather that having it extracting to the outside is much better than having it re-circulating? The hood I've chosen does both, but it is being mounted on an exterior wall so I could have it extracting. There's no hole in the wall presently though, is it a huge job to make that? I'm not sure what diameter we're talking about! I think the wall is made of breeze block as it's an extension.

What I need to work out is where I can place the actual socket to plug the unit into. It'll be mounted on a tiled wall and isn't adjacent to any cupboards, so to avoid having a visible socket on the wall near it I was thinking that the socket could go behind the chimney section?

This is the actual hood here:

've looked at these mounted up in Ikea and the chimney section seems to be seperate from the actual hood section (in the shop you could actually lift it off). I was worried that inside the chimney section may be too hot/damp to safely have a socket on the wall but having inspected them that part seems almost cosmetic?

If it's going to be too damp for a socket is something like this safe (looks better sealed):

's also metal which is presumably better from a heat point of view?

Thanks,

Ian.

[Owain]

Yes

Yes.

Breeze block usually soft. Hole usually 4" dia.

If it's cosmetic that's okay. The socket should not be mounted inside the actual duct.

Owain

[Steve Rainbird]

Ian

This doesnt answer your question I am afraid but I am also interested in this hood but dont understand what the sentence

"To be completed with NYTTIG TUB 120 flexible pipe for fan for connection to a valve." means.

What did you take it to mean?

[manatbandq]

Definitely, unless you just want a big shiny one to try and impress people.

MBQ

[Derek ^]

Could it mean (backdraught) shutter.

A bad translation Swedish > English ?

DG

[Ian Atkinson]

I presumed that was the part to connect it to the duct to outside, i.e. a part you wouldn't need if it was in re-circulation mode - I haven't bought that bit yet though so I don't really know!

Ian.

[Lobster]

[e-mail] wrote: > I've just had a good look through the past posts on here and there > seems to be lots of good tips, from what I can gather I'm best wiring > it into a switched and fused spur off the ring main?

Fine

That's a no-brainer - never fit these things as re-circulating if you can possibly help it. For one, a recirculating fan can't get rid of steam, and secondly, you need to keep renewing the charcoal filters inside, which absorb nasty niffs, and these are incredibly expensive (they aren't necessary at all if you extract).

No, pretty easy, especially in a block wall. Either hire a core drill (expensive but quick and neat) or if it was me, I'd just chain-drill the hole using an ordinary masonry drill - that is, mark your circle on the wall, then drill small holes close together right around the circumference, then you shold be able to knock out the core pretty easily and neatly. Good idea to start by drilling one pilot hole right through the wall from the inside, to mark the position of the centre of the vent hole outside; then you can chain drill on the outside, which minimises damage to the (more visible) outer wall. You'll probably have a cavity wall in which case you have two walls to do anyway.

If it was me, I'd then pass a length of ducting through the wall eg:

to be angled slightly outwards to help any rain/condensation drain out.

Fit that flush with the outside wall and mortar in place and make good, when it's set, add a vent like:

fits snugly into the ducting.

Chop off the ducting on the inside wall leaving an inch protruding, then connect that to the exit of the extractor fan using flexible hosing.

That would be fine; the space can be quite limited behind there though - depends largely on the height between hood and ceiling. I've dine it in the past using a flush-mounted fused connection unit (all cables buried) which doesn't look too bad.

Yes they are essentially cosmetic; they protect the ducting within I suppose.

Not really, because you're not going to be mounting the switch anywhere where it's going to get too hot. If there were a concern about the switch housing being not robust enough to withstand the temperature, then you should be worried about the insulation on the cables...

You know that there are rules about how high the extractor has to be over the hob? Consult the hob instruction manual.

David

[Jan Larsen]

Hehe, no I assure you that on the Swedish and for that matter the Danish Ikea website it makes rather little sense either.

However I asked a friend of mine back in Copenhagen about this about 10 minutes ago, he fits quite a few kitchens from Ikea and confirms that the "valve" in question is one of those flappy things where air will go out when there is pressure on the inside but will shut when the wind blows on the outside. "TUB 120" is simply a piece of 120mm flexible aluminium duct.

It occurred to me also that the very same device is far cheaper in Denmark, which is a bit odd, its almost half the price.

My friend Dan comments however that it is a nice cooker hood but recommends that you either clean it very often or refrain from pointing a spotlight at it.

//J

[meow2222]

nother option is to run flex or cable from the hood down the wall behind the tiles and to the fcu or plug. Nothing visible.

NT

[Andy Hall]

That's because Danes are better negotiators and Swedes are used to paying high prices as a result of normally having to buy their booze in Systembolaget. Compared with that, anything is cheap, except, perhaps for a Norwegian having to buy it in Vinmonopolet or a Finn in Alko.

Reminds me of the story of two Finns in a bar.

One orders a round of drinks, raises his glass and says "Kippis"

The other says "Are we going to talk or are we going to drink?"

[Ian Atkinson]

That's a great help David, thank you!

I'll order the bits and then I think I'm all set to go :)

Ian.

[marvelus]

"kippis" means "how are you?" right?

the version on R4 a few days ago has them drink 1 bottle then one of them says "so how has your life been?" then...

[Lobster]

Be aware that there are different diameters of ducting/hosing available

- check the diameter of the spigot of your extractor fan, and then buy kit to match... you can get adapters etc but obviously easiest not to.

Also - check whether or not the hood has a built-in flaps to close hole off when not in use; if not it can get pretty draughty when you don't want it to: this can be avoided by fitting a vent on the outside wall which incorporates flaps (not as effective as the built-in ones, but probably better than nothing)

David