Convert4 Socket

[GB]

I've been busily replacing the double sockets in our kitchen with these

4 socket convertors:

I have left one of the double sockets for now, as it has a couple of high power items plugged in, namely a 3KW kettle and an 1800w fairly continuous load. The kettle is only on for a couple of minutes at a time, of course.

The socket converter is protected by a 13 amp fuse. Will that survive the overload for a couple of minutes?

Can I buy fuses that are, ahem, more resilient than others?

[ARW]

If you were to put a 13A BS1362 fuse in a fight with a BS60898 B32 MCB and take bets I would bet on the fuse.

[Owain Lastname]

Not, ahem, that are compliant with BS1362.

Of course, if the double socket is not a spur, you can replace with 2 double sockets (just not a converter socket).

Owain

[Robin]

although IIRC the use of converters was to avoid surface mounting or excavation

[GB]

These converters are a five minute job to fit, which is within my attention span.

[GB]

Okay, so I'll change that one too.

[Scott]

I thought it was bad practice to use these devices other than for small and predictable loads (such as electronic equipment). If you move house - or have visitors - someone else could plug in two or more heavy duty appliances (toaster and kettle). Indeed, would this method be acceptable for a kitchen if ever it were to be inspected and could it affect insurance?

[GB]

We have the same appliances as before. I'm just doing away with the multi-way adaptors.

Are you right, though, anyway? The standard double sockets will allow two 13 amp appliances to be plugged in. These converter sockets are fused at 13 amps combined for all four sockets.

[Steve Walker]

The only problem if someone plugged two (or more) high current devices is that the integral fuse would (eventually) blow.

[Owain Lastname]

I usually think that too, but by the time I've moved the furniture and footled with the wires in the cramped space it usually ends up being The Afternoon's Job, so I might as well get the SDS out and destruct some more of my flat.

Owain

[Scott]

I assumed that but I was questioning what someone else might do.

Right or wrong, I cannot say as I am not an electrician. I would not do it. If in doubt, consult a qualified electrician.

[Theo]

IANA electrician, but I think the issue with these is they are intended to be fitted to replace a socket and, without sight of the wiring in the wall, that socket could be a spur. The spur only being capable of dealing with a double socket, to add four sockets would overload it.

If you know the socket is on a ring, there isn't the same limitation. But then there's the problem the socket is fused. If you were to replace the fuse with a copper slug (for example) you would a) cause surprises given it looks fused from the outside, b) the fuse wouldn't be to BS1362 and so not an approved installation, and c) risk overloading the wiring inside the socket which is expecting to be protected by the fuse and now isn't.

For better or worse, this socket with 4 kettles is going to heat up more internally than a pair of double sockets, just by the fact that the cooling is more spread out in the pair.

Theo

[Owain Lastname]

Except that the only things permitted on a standard ring or radial circuit are single 13A sockets, double 13A sockets, or a 13A fused connection unit.

Even on a ring you have to be careful to avoid high point loads.

Owain

[John Rumm]

So total load about 20A?

Yup it will be ok - possibly even indefinitely even if it does get a bit warm:

[John Rumm]

Which is why it has internal fusing to make it behave as a fused spur should it be used to replace an existing socket on an unfused spur.

Yes.

No.

[John Rumm]

It does not matter... the adaptor includes an internal fuse to accommodate the situation where a single spur cable will need overload protection.

The only things that have changed are previously your could plug in 2x

13A loads and not risk blowing a fuse (but could risk overloading a socket). Now since you have a fuse, there is a chance that if you connected a long term load of that magnitude, you could blow it.

Since many double sockets are only rated for 20A continuos load, one might argue this is actually an improvement in safety.

Which by posting here, he did, since we have some tame ones to hand :-)

[Scott]

Fair comment. I was really just saying, as an outsider to the trade, if I were buying a house I would not like the look of this.

[GB]

Anyone buying our house would entirely redo the kitchen, including the electrics. As they would be smashing everything to bits, doubling up the electrical sockets would be a minor part of the process.

It's interesting that we have/had 6 double sockets in the kitchen. At the time we moved in, 23 years ago, that seemed like loads. Now, it is nowhere near enough. So many of the appliances plugged in are ones that we didn't have, nor expect to have, when we moved in. Alexa, for example. Who'd have thought, 23 years ago, that you'd chat to a twenty quid computer in your kitchen?

[GB]

The kettle is marked 2500-3000 watts, which presumably depends on the voltage. So, 2500/220 => about 11-12A.

The other load is marked 1500-1800 => 7A

So, we are actually unlikely to get as high as 20A. (Even if we also switch on the coffee grinder at the same time.)

Thanks. Very interesting.

Can I just check: The two lines marked 13A are because of the tolerances allowed in the standard? The lines show maximum and minimum times before the fuse pops?

[charles]

Our kitchen done in 1988, also has doubles, but extra (hidden) ones for fridge, dishwasher. waste disposal and boiler. One of the doubles. which feeds the tv now has a 4-way for the sound bar (which needs 2) I fitted during lockdown,