The boiler, cylinder, pump and valves are all located in a large airing cupboard on the first floor. The piping and wiring are complicated by the addition of a large pump for a power shower in an en suite that takes a seperate feed off the tank - there are a lot of pipes and wires in one place!
Is there anywhere i can get good wiring/plumbing diagrams and an explanation of 's' plan for reference?
To email, substitute .nospam with .gl
ACL's good stuff, I use them quite a bit. Decent price too. Fitted a few RF3i's on combi's, not had any complaints yet. Some have been in for 6/7 years. The Tempus 7 would be the 2 channel clock you would want instead if you're going to do it that way.
SJW A.C.S. Ltd.
Indeed. I've come to the conclusion that it's worth paying for the top end controllers as the premium is'nt great. Tempus 7 even has a holiday mode - tell it you'll be back in a fortnight and it will have the house nice and warm for your return.
If you dont have a cylinder stat at the moment, my guess is that you have gravity H/W. i.e. Your pump only drives the Central Heating.
In this case you will always generate H/W when the C/H is on,
Typically the boiler is supplied with power whenever the time switch is on. The boiler starts whenever the water temperature falls below a certain point. The room thermostat controls the pump, i.e. the room thermostat supplies power to the pump whenever the room temp falls below a certain point.
If you just replace the room stat with a programmable one, you will have to leave the boiler on all the time and therefore generate hot water all the time.
You could avoid this by either:
a) Fitting a Danfoss Randall TP9 Programmer/Room thermostat to replace both your current programmer and room thermostat. Possibly very easy to install as you may well be able to use existing wiring. Less than £60 from plumbworld. The TP 9 allows six room temp changes and two on periods per day for H/W. Can be set to use a different program at weekends.
b) Fitting a H/W tank stat and zone valve with micro switch (Honeywell C plan). Requires plumbing work. Arguable a better solution but you need to be careful plumbing wise to be sure that you boiler wont mind having is ability to circulate water naturally restricted.
c) Using and additional relay to supply power to the boiler when the pump is on.
Option a) can be upgraded to option b). Nothing would be wasted.
Michael Chare
all the time the time
powered up all the time
If you would care to read previous posts you would note that;
a) there are 2 zone valves already installed, so that puts gravity out of the question.
b) there is a cylinder stat etc... (see a))
Already sorted that I think, wireless would guarantee no wiring would be needed in addition to the stat.
If it were me who asked the original question I would ignore all of this as irrelevant or incorrect.
SJW A.C.S. Ltd.
Maybe I have paid more attention to the O/P's statement that he does not have a Cylinder stat than to your argument that he ought to have one.
Michael Chare
At which point I become confused again. I do have a cold water tank in the loft - i was under the impression this was a sign of a gravity fed system? I'm coming to the conclusion that it might be time to get a heating engineer in - having owned combi's for the last 10 years i'm rusty on everything else.
AJ
Think a gravity system is where the hot water circuit isn't pumped. If you've got motorised valves etc, it probably is.
You can have a C plan set up where the boiler/DHW cylinder circuit is gravity (meaning convection) and a zone valve and thermostat are used to prevent the hot water from overheating.
.andy
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Hence my use of 'probably'. I'm sure it's possible, but I've never seen it.
More common was a sort of TRV to control the water temperature, rather than just the boiler stat.
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