That would be true of any reactive/resitive dropper.
That's why I suggested if the OP wanted to do this, seal or fully encase the unit and make it 100% waterproof.
But, let's get this in perspective, it's no more dangerous (barring stupidity in deployment) than a mains bulb, which are very common in aquaria.
Cheers
Tim
True as far as it goes; but aren't most mains aquaria lights bought at finished units, designed for the environment they're in? Whereas the OP was after suggestions for d-i-y'ing, so taking on more responsbility for construction-and-use than someone who Bought It In A Shop...
I appreciate that, but was avoiding going into that level of detail for a solution that did not seem wise! ;-)
Yup agreed, poor choice of number on my part... (was thinking Si Diode rather than LED)
That was the point I was trying to make along with pointing out that it is possible to make stupid mistakes with these sort of things.
-- Malc
Hi,
Try running all 4 in series off a regulated wall wart at 12v or an unregulated one with an actual output no greater than 4x max Vf (forward voltage).
Flats on the LEDS (cathode lead) go towards negative.
cheers, Pete.
You will still want a current limiting resistor in there somewhere, these are diodes we are talking about!
In tank embedded in the wall?
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