I have some garden lighting that was installed by the previous owner of the house. I'd like to replace the spike-type lights with new ones, running short lengths of two core flex to the new lights.
This means I need to find a waterproof SWA/2-core connector - is there such a thing?
PS: the cabling for the current lights lights is SWA to 2-core, protected (sic) by amalgamating tape.
TIA
TLC
Many thanks. The Pratley box lloks like just the ticket.
Does the box need to be underground? If not then
Not used that brand before - cute idea re flex exit glands. I take it you still need proper glands for the SWA though to make proper armour connection?
You still need the glands:-)
And the OP may be interested in
Looks like the best option - no specialist glands or fittings needed, should be a doddle to fit.
Many thanks for the tip.
Further to that you might e better off with
John,
See my new post for a nice solution for armoured glands in these boxes.
I have never seen the earth bars before. They look very good.
One day, when we move house, someone is going to wonder about my SWA feed to the garage. It's wired via an Ex d flameproof box, with integral internal earthing plate and EEx e/Ex d glands - purely because it was going spare where I worked! I was given the SWA on-site too, where it had been used as a temporary supply. A nice cheap job!
SteveW
Yup that is quite a nice solution... will try that next time I do some SWA.
Historically I have used:
something like:
I'm still struggling with banjos and less and less brass *wasted* on the gland nut. I had planned to ask if anyone had come across a spanner suitable for tightening gland nuts.
The illustrations for Piranha nuts appear identical from different sites. Presumably they are internally threaded? Not clear from the pictures.
I normally fit the gland to the cable and then to the box. How do you arrange the earth terminal to arrive at a convenient position for connection?
regards
>
Bush spanner?
Yup they are internally threaded, and have sharp pips on one side to help grip softer cases - so in many cases once finger tight you can tighten them with one spanner only on the outside. They also have small radial threaded hole and a grub screw that allows them to be "locked off" on the end of the gland so it can't be undone.
The nuts have screw holes on each flat ready to take a terminal screw (supplied). Hence I crimp a ring terminal on my wire, and simply screw it to whichever flat is convenient.
No. Both common types assume there is nothing in the gland you are tightening.
Clearly I should be fitting the cable after mounting the gland.
regards
In message , John Rumm writes
I must try mounting the gland first.
It is a lot easier to get the wire armouring clamped nicely if you fit the gland to the wire.
Oh well. Only a few more to do. Pillar drill, lathe and some benching moved today.
regards
Slackening the armouring off and remaking after fixing the gland to the box is quite common
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