Is there a reason why radiators shoud not be connected using flexible hoses? I mean this kind of thing:
maybe it is a bit OTT, but is there a law against it?
Robert
I suspect they may not be sealed well against air penetration (i.e. probably no equivalent of barrier pipe versions), which could be an issue in a sealed system (more regular inhibitor replacement required).
Apart from looking awful, it would add a fiver to the cost of fitting a rad...
What about using pushfit fittings or something? It would look rubbish, but it would allow rotation of the joint once you got the rad off the hangers. You don't need much flex in a length of copper pipe to lift up the rad enough to get it away from the wall.
I have two plinth level Smith fan convectors. Both of these were supplied with regular braided flexible hoses, so you can fit and remove them under kitchen cabinets and fixed pipework just can't be used. So I don't see a problem with using these on regular radiators apart from the fact they're ugly. Just be careful to choose hoses rated for the temperature - many are only specced to handle tap temperatures (up to 60C). Could you use Speedfit or similar plastic pipe instead to get the flexibility? The 10mm microbore stuff is very easy to work with.
-Antony.
Only if you can see them. My 10mm feed pipes emerge from the wall behind the rad and I'd use copper from the rad fittings to a join with the flexible somehwere on the back of the rad. the flexible pipes would be invisible.
that's a very good point. Id' forgotten that rad tempertaures can be higher than taps.
Robert
In article , RobertL writes
Yep, I've done that and they work and look just fine. If you decide you don't like the look then you can cover them with split plastic radiator pipe covers normally used on rigid pipe and remove those when you want to move things.
I assume you intend remove the compression nut and olive from the lockshield and TRV, and then apply the tap connector end to the exposed thread. Be aware that this is not as nature intended as the compression thread end may be sharp and cut into the rubber seal or be uneven, putting you at risk of leaks. If you got this route, check the thread ends aren't too sharp or file and lap them smooth first.
Also, it's a 15mm x 1/2" hose that you're looking for and I used longer ones to make the underfloor work a bit easier and to give slack when you're moving the rad about. Also [2], don't underestimate the weight of a large rad full of water.
I used 1/2" x 15mm x 900mm which gives room for a healthy loop under the floor before connection to rigid pipework, code 8097 from BES:
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