concealed door closer fitting

Rising butts may be an easier way?

Had one fitted to our downstairs loo for over 30 years for obvious reasons, brilliant, never had a problem. Kids grew up unscathed but I suppose a *slight* chance an unwary little one may get fingers caught in the door jamb.

Andy

they're universally horrible to live with. Rising butt hinges are much friendlier to use. A diy closer is also possible with hooks, nylon fishing or strimmer line and a weight.

NT

snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com brought next idea :

Good point, maybe an alternative option.

Not for a living room door though..

I have several. They are good. And adjustable. The long bit goes in the door. It comes with a little bit of metal with a slot that enables it to be fitted The spring is compressed and the slot fits over the chain holding it in the "open"position. Very heavy doors might need two of them. Screwfix has them.

Harry Bloomfield explained on 21/01/2018 :

To work around that problem, I'm thinking....

Remove the door, lay it absolutely flat and level, then stick a bubble from a level on a drill, preset so when it shows level, the drill bit is level.

Start shouting at each other to "close the f'ing door"?

I suspect that the action is very similar to the small exposed type with short spring loaded bar that pushes the door shut. Had one of those got rid of it and fitted a proper, two stage, closer. The problem with the bar type was that the force on the door was fairly constant so just accelerated the door all the time leading to it slamming. If you reduced the force to the point where it didn't slam it couldn't close the door against the brushes on the intumastic strip. Admitedly without the brushes it might have worked without excessive slamming.

The two stage closer quickly shuts the door to about 2" open, catches it, then slowly and quietly closes it. Both rates being independantly adjustable. The gotcha with even a small two stage closer is that it makes the door harder to open.

why do fire doors have the "middle" hinge rarely in the middle but offset to the top of the door?????

Not going to be "concealed", is it?

he's a genius!

Called a Gib Closer. Not very good if the door is only left slightly open as the power will be reduced. Good for slamming a door that had been left wide open though.

My thoughts. You really need a proper door closer for this job. Which varies the pressure. You can get one which fit into the floor - but a lot of work to fit.

Guessing, the top of the door is likely to be exposed to more heat during the fire rated period than the bottom.

snipped-for-privacy@cucumber.demon.co.uk (Andrew Gabriel) wrote in news:p44hl5$jmo$1 @dont-email.me:

Turning Moments. The bottom hinge is a fulcrum and bears thrust. The top is under tension so it makes sense to shafe it across 2 hinges.

I made one of those for a workshop door, with bicycle gear cable, a couple of screw eyes and a brick. It worked quite well but would fail occasionally (the door saw a lot of use) dropping the brick, so make sure the resting position of the weight is close to the floor. :-)

good point :) Mine didn't need anywhere near that much weight. The necessary weight depends a lot on how far from the hinge it's fixed.

NT