I always left foot brake on an auto. Why have two pedals and two feet but only use one?
It does take some getting used to at first - but then becomes second nature. And I don't have a problem driving a manual either.
It might be tricky if you had two identical cars, one manual, one auto. But different cars have different controls anyway. So no different from remembering where the light switch is.
On most cars if you try to move off very fast with a lot of steering lock, it will tend to spin a wheel. Could it be some form of traction control cutting in?
Pretty much.
There was no prosecution although the road layout was improved afterwards by moving hedges back so that the sight line at the junction allowed you to better see the car that would be likely to hit you.
https://www.google.co.uk/maps/@53.1803669,-2.4675209,3a,75y,159.63h,70.51t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1sVdNPIjbQyh129oLgIplb0g!2e0!7i13312!8i6656 Originally the hedge was a yard from the kerb everywhere and there was a very solid stone gate post just opposite where we came to rest.
My honest opinion is that both drivers made a mistake. The last thing I can recall thinking before I passed out was "it's going to be close".
It is a classic error when using an automatic car when used to a manual. Basically in moments of stress it is all to easy to declutch the brake.
The point is that the judder and the bang and stalled engine only happen on trips where I have been involved in long, multi-stationary crawling traffic.
I haven't done any tests with over-revving the engine before engaging the clutch, but I think it used to happen with the older car with different revs. My impression was that as the clutch engaged fairly sharply, the engine revs dropped to a point where a resonance caused conflicting forces at the engine/clutch interface, hence the bang.
The fact that the newer car shows similar, but much less significant symptoms, might indicate that some development had occurred between 2007 and 2010.
In message <qfi2f6$8ik$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me, NY snipped-for-privacy@privacy.invalid writes
It is on a Skoda, and, yes, I think the 1.9tdi is a PD engine (although I could be wrong). However, I haven't noticed those effects. Maybe your test drive vehicle had the start of the effect I'm describing.
No, it?s the engine management just killing the engine if the revs drop too low. I suspect very low revs can induce damaging resonances in dual mass flywheels. I?ve experienced it in many modern diesels.
Tim
I've not experienced engine-killing on any other diesel engine than the VW PD engine: Peugeot 1.9 XUD, 2.0 HDi, 1.6 HDi, Honda 1.7 (in 2002 Civic), Honda 1.6 (in CR-V), and various others - none of these suffer the engine dying if the revs drop below a certain level due to insufficient fuel or too much mechanical load. which causes a very sudden stop within a fraction of a second as if the ignition had been turned off.
The 1.6 in the CR-V seems to run short of turbo pressure if the engine revs drop too low for the mechanical load: I find I need to be in at least one gear, maybe two gears, lower than in my Pug 308 (1.6 HDi) when accelerating out of roundabouts and T junctions, or when going up hills - and once the engine fails to pull, it needs a much lower gear than it would normally do in that situation to get it to pull again - maybe the engine needs to rev faster than normal to produce enough exhaust to spin the turbo to generate more inlet pressure. Normally I think "I'd take this roundabout in third in Pug, so I need 2nd in the Honda" but occasionally I forget and it bites me in the bum and I have to try to change down *smoothly* right when I want to accelerate, without overcooking it and surging forward.
You don't half stop quick when you do that! I've only done it the once, having driven an automatic for the first time, setting off from Manchester and driving to Bury St. Edmunds - spotted the company I was heading for and forgot it was an automatic.
No trouble after that, but I have very rarely driven an automatic since
- that was just the only pool car that day.
SteveW
The accelerator was via a cable, can't recall the clutch.
It had a new fangled alternator, except it had a mechanical reed regulator that I changed to a 2n3055 + zener affair. The old regulator would stick and the lights go all bright for a second or so!
DSG
aka mechatronics, but I should have said it operates the gear changes as well as the clutches.
So the early type with a single clutch? Later ones have twin layshafts and clutches so you get no interruption of power on a gearshift between sequential gears. And are rather more gentle on those clutches. Nothing from that appears on OBD on mine. I'm told the clutches should have the same life as the gearbox.
Indeed.
The first SMG type box I tried was pretty crude. Nothing like as smooth as a conventional auto under normal use. Although certainly not bad when in a hurry. The later twin layshaft type pretty well as smooth as a torque convertor auto in normal use, but without the transmission losses, and changes gear even faster than the SMG. The only downside is the auto clutch ain't quite as controllable as a torque convertor when creeping - like when parking. But a small price to pay.
An earlier implementation of the flywheel concept were a couple of bus routes
no, I did say clutches
Mine got a bit lumpier after 4 years, would occasionally throw up a transmission fault code when going over a deep pothole, and I was worried enough about it after 7 that I'd looked at getting it replaced (there is a local DSG specialist) but then I plumped for chopping it in instead ... on the final journey up from Leicester to Grange-over-Sands the DSG overheated and I had to reset the faults with an OBD cable before getting to the dealer ...
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