Are you suggesting that the two sides (engine and compressed air) were isolated one from the other?
It might explain the lack of any smell, but the entire working parts were not much bigger than a spark plug. From memory it had an round body - a little bigger diameter than a spark plug, bottom end had a thread to match the spark plug, upper end had some slotted air vents then on the very top an outlet for the compressed air with the long air line fitted to it.
good point but you could remove the power to the injector? My subaru ran on 3 cylinders when an injector wire snapped inside its insulation.
I wouldn't advise these with a modern engine as spark plugs seem less accessible now and the risk of mis threading wouldn't be worth it.
AJH
Yes, you can still get these in the US but the ones with 4m rubber tube that Schraeder used to market aren't available anymore.
They had a one way ball valve in the output and a sleeve valve on the outside to let air into the cylinder, so on tickover the air was imbibed largely through the fitting rather than the inlet valve. I never had any problems which might be associated with petrol getting to the rubber over a fairly lengthy period when I relied on this thing in the field, run off a 2.25 land rover.
I wouldn't revert to it as I now have the choice of a simple pto compressor or a 4kVA generator and 2kW compressor (which it only just starts when empty and not at all pumping into a full tank).
I did make a small unit from a redundant fridge unit because I could run that off an inverter or "disposable" 2t generator but it failed quite quickly on the electrical side. I'd try it again but fridge motors aren't readily available since the regs on halogenated refrigerants came in.
AJH
behind which was a ptfe like plastic reed, this sealed the slots under compression but allowed air into the cylinder on the inlet stroke.
Yes and a little ball bearing one way valve beneath the screw connector to the hose.
AJH
On Thu, 31 May 2007 00:12:47 GMT, "Mark" wrote: ...
This is more to do with seating the beads, a normal compressor cannot supply enough air fast enough to push the beads and make them seal. It works very well with propane but you do need to make sure the valve is out or the condensing steam sucks the beads back off.
It can be quite exciting, I once tried to seal the beads with a small webbing ratchet strap and compressed air, when that didn't work I resorted to propane but omitted to remove the strap, big mistake...
AJH
The local tyre place sells a 12V compressor complete with a tyre sealant which screws into it, apparently it will inflate and seal a punctured tyre. I'd like to borrow one after it's been used because you are supposed to replace the sealant can after use and I'm sure there would be enough left to sort out the "porous" tyre on my mountain bike.
AJH
The one our neighbour had (we used a foot pump) was quite a bit larger than that - around the size of an external oil filter, with a long extension that screwed into the plug hole. Sounds as though it was a different design.
Colin Bignell
Like what those mad Icelanders do when the massively under-inflated tyres they use for off-roading on glaciers lose puff?
nightjar explained :
I can understand how that would work, it just needs a piston or even a diaphragm between the engine side and the compressed air side.
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