Just to add to that, base cost for 7m of good heavy single wall stainless flue liner including installation (and removal of old gas grade liner) was around £700.
My concern is that the flue is a similar perhaps slightly bigger than a letter box in cross section and conventional stainless liner will not be possible. So some form of coating might be required.
The other option might be the construction of a separate flue that runs up the side of our property though the neighbours might not be too impressed!
=A33000 would make it out of the question...so we may just have to buy another electric fire/heater!
I see. So the flue cavity could not clear a 5" diameter pipe then? That could be a problem.
Worth inviting a HETAS installer round - perhaps the existing flue is sufficiently rated for solid fuel? Google for HETAS - they have a registered-bloke-by-postcode search feature on their website. That won't cost anything.
Well, if you are lucky and the flue is good for it, it would be stove (500-1000 depending) and installation (100-ish without liner).
If a liner is involved, as I said, it gets bloody expensive just in parts - even worse if you needed a double-walled liner as you might to do a run that is not contained within an existing flueway. I wasn't being "done" either - I's already priced the parts on the internet and that's why I let that job go out, because the labour differential cost was small.
>>>>> Is this liner any different from one costing around £100 per meter!? >> >
Okay, but the site I linked to say the liner is suable... "for use on stoves burning the following fuels:- gas, oil, coal, coke, seasoned dry logs, cured dry peat and all smokeless fuels."
It needs to be a 150mm flue for solid fuels. I didn't think part J had requirements for insulation of the flue, just distances from combustible materials. It's the certification that causes the problems because only HETAS people can self certify a flue installation and they may insist on proprietary products.
In practice the higher temperature grade ss smooth inside flexible flue with insulation (vermiculite) in the voids outside would do the job but then you'd need to get the flue and plate signed off.
I might have missed something along the way as I don't understand whether the existing chimney actually has some form of "stainless steel" letterbox flue liner or whether the flue is concrete block in construction (gas tight). If the latter then go with the following. (or at least give them a call to describe your current chimney construction)
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"DO I NEED TO LINE MY CHIMNEY TO THE TOP?
If your chimney is in good order with no leaks i.e. no leaks of smoke into your upstairs rooms, your attic or your neighbours` house, in the case of a semi, then the answer is NO you do not need to line your chimney nor is there anything in Building Regulations which states that you must line. The rule here is NO LEAK NO LINER.
MY CHIMNEY DOES NOT LEAK BUT I HAVE BEEN TO A SHOP AND THEY TELL ME I MUST LINE IT. IS THIS CORRECT?
In a shop or on other websites you are dealing with sales people. Here, at Wood burning Stoves Limited.com , you are dealing with HETAS qualified solid fuel engineers. The sales people in these shops are attempting to pressure you by mis-selling a chimney lining kit. Selling you something you do not require in order to obtain a higher commission percentage on the sale. Building Regulations Part J. (Sections 1.36 ?
1.39 a chimney only requires relining if the chimney is defective).
WHEN MUST I LINE MY CHIMNEY?
You must line your chimney, chimney top to stove, if it is defective i.e. leaks smoke into your house, attic or your neighbours` house. We can supply full lining kits for this purpose."
Hope that helps. Just because somone claims to have a "qualification" it doesn't mean they are the be-all and end-all authority on a subject. (You only need to watch the rogue exposure type TV programs to realise that!)
Indeed. When our HETAS engineer fitted our stove, he didn't line the chimney - he tested the existing stack for integrity, and decided it didn't need doing.
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